Country Guide for Egypt

Why you should read this...

Our General Information series are intended to provide some understanding of aspects of a country which a visitor may encounter and to assist the adoption of appropriate expectations.
Being brief they are highly selective, and should be amplified with an intelligent guidebook or other publications. They attempt to avoid the cosy upbeat tone of much travel writing and sometimes contain controversial passages. While largely compiled by staff in the MRT office, they are critically appraised by natives of the country and our freelance lecturers.

They are sent to all participants both with the confirmation of booking and again with the final documents about ten days before the tour.

Passports and visas
Individual visas are required by most foreign nationals. We arrange for visas to be issued on arrival in Egypt, so you will not need to obtain a visa in advance through the Egyptian Embassy. Visas on arrival can be issued to visitors of most countries in Europe, as well as the USA, Canada, Japan, New Zealand and Australia. For other nationalities, we would need to make enquiries. The cost of the visa is included in the tour price.

Visa information can be obtained from the Egyptian  Consulate in the UK on 020 7235 9719.
The telephone number of the Egyptian Consulate in Australia is (02) 9281 4844.

Participants on tours to the Western Desert, Sinai and middle Egypt need to submit a copy of the photo page of their passport in order for us to obtain permissions to pass through desert check points. Please send us a clear photocopy by post or scanned image by email at least two months prior to departure.

We advise that your passport should be valid for at least six months from the start of the tour as this is now becoming a standard requirement, even if this information is not supplied by consulates.

We recommend that you take photocopies of the relevant pages of your passport and any visa in case of loss of the original documents. A set of passport photographs may also be useful.

The UK Identity & Passport Service advice line is 0870 521 0410, the e-mail is info@passport.gov.uk, and the website is www.ips.gov.uk

Safety and security
Although the crime rate in Egypt is low, valuables not actually required, documents of no use during the tour (driving licence, library tickets) and items of sentimental value should be left at home. Do not leave passports, money or other valuables in your hotel room except in the safe. Don’t put all your eggs in one basket: spread your money and cards around.

As tourism is such a lucrative industry in Egypt, street crime such as theft and pickpocketing is rare; however, Egypt is becoming ever more renowned for street hassle. Visitors often find themselves the object of unwanted attention in touristic areas from pushy vendors, begging children or unnecessary offers of assistance. While there is not much one can do to avoid such irritations, a firm refusal or refusal to acknowledge are the best forms of defence.

Terrorism. Egypt has suffered several terrorist attacks in the past few years; these have generally targeted tourist and conference hotels around Sharm el-Sheikh or political objectives in Cairo. Bandits crossing from the Sudan are also becoming a problem in the far south-west, recently having graduated from theft to hostage-taking. It is normal practice in Egypt for a member of the tourist police to accompany visitors outside of the towns or cities. They can seem stern but respond well to friendliness, and always appreciate a free lunch (which we generally provide - more on the importance of hospitality later in this leaflet). Security checks at hotel entrances have become increasingly common in recent years and convoys are usual practise for some journeys outside of the towns or cities. These usually consist of a car or motorbike at the front and rear of coaches or cars. Sometimes it is simply an armed guard accompanying the group.

Up-to-date Foreign & Commonwealth Office Travel Advice is available on the internet at http://www.fco.gov.uk, or by telephone at their travel Advice Unit on  0845–850 2829, or on BBC 2 Ceefax page 470 onwards.

Seatbelts. If coaches or cars are fitted with seatbelts please wear them.

Insurance
We must stress that private travel insurance – with adequate cover for medical treatment, repatriation and cancellation – is a condition of booking with us. Please register any existing medical conditions with your insurance provider.

Health
Stomach upsets. Visitors to Egypt are often afflicted with stomach trouble. You may wish to bring sufficient supplies of your preferred remedy; rehydration salts such as Dioralyte are particularly recommended.Tapwater in Egypt is fine for washing and brushing teeth, but is generally highly chlorinated and treated, so is not for drinking. Especially outside of Cairo it is best to be wary of ice in drinks and food that may have come into contact with tapwater. The most effective combattant of stomach trouble is to keep cool and properly hydrated.

Pharmacies and doctors are readily available in larger cities and are generally efficient and well-equipped. Caution is recommended, however, as medicines tend to be stronger than their EU-regulated equivalents.

At times participants will be far from modern medical facilities – please consider whether this is an issue for any existing medical conditions.

There are mosquitoes in places so it is essential that you bring good repellent

A document entitled Health Advice for Travellers (issued by the NHS), which contains information about medical treatment abroad and staying healthy while travelling, is available online at www.dh.gov.uk/travellers, or from the Post Office.

Vaccinations. None is mandatory but you may wish to discuss these requirements with your doctor or practice nurse. Advice can change.

Courses or boosters usually advised for Egypt: diphtheria; tetanus; poliomyelitis; hepatitis A; typhoid.

Vaccinations sometimes advised for Egypt: tuberculosis; rabies; hepatitis B.

Money
The currency is the Egyptian pound, known locally as the guinea (pronounced guin-neih). Egyptian pounds are available at most larger Post Offices or bureaux de change, alternatively we recommend you take sterling, US dollars or Euros in cash to be changed locally. The larger hotels have banks. We advise against travellers cheques as they are no longer widely accepted. The Egyptian guide can give further advice about where to exchange money. There are a number of cash points (ATMs) in the major cities and some hotels. However, we recommend you bring sufficient currency to more remote areas. You should aim to change money early on in the tour and will find that small denominations of Egyptian pounds are very useful.

Shopping in Egypt. Outside the fixed-price shops, haggling is the norm. One generally tries to pay a third or a half of the original price offered, but the tour manager or local guide will always be happy to advise and assist. Some shops in main sites are tourist traps and should be avoided, such as the Luxor Museum bookshop. In more upmarket boutiques you may find yourself being closely followed by an attendant, this is in case you need any help or wish them to carry your intended buys while you shop.

Tipping (baksheesh). Egypt functions largely on a basis of favours and rewards; when considering whether, or how much, to tip, the key is to think about what help or service you have received. Many visitors are annoyed by blatant pleas for baksheesh for very little or no service and it is fine to ignore or rebuff these ruder demands. However, many are also impressed by the eagerness to assist that some Egyptians demonstrate. Do not be afraid to ask for help or favours, and do reward any good service done for you. Tips range from a 1 guinea note for a toilet attendant, 5–10 guineas for waiters at cafes and beyond that to roughly 10% of the main charge paid. It is considered good manners to make a show of refusing tips - a Middle Eastern habit, it is typically done up to three times or until pressed to accept by the grateful party.

Weather and clothing
Egypt has a hot, dry climate, though does have colder evenings, particularly in the desert areas. Alexandria and the north coast have a Mediterranean climate and suffer from cold and rain in winter months. Cairo is generally hot and smoggy – it is currently the most polluted city in the world. Upper Egypt and the desert are hot and experience very little precipitation. Please see the ‘Further Information’ specific to the tour you have booked for average temperatures.

As you are out-of-doors much of the time, it is best to wear loose, light clothing which covers the body to protect against sunburn. A sunhat, sunglasses and sunscreen are essential. As many of the hotels we use have a swimming pool or mineral spring, you may wish to bring swimwear. As temperatures are cooler in the evenings and at night you are advised to bring a jumper and light jacket. Comfortable walking shoes are essential for the excursions; closed shoes or trainers are best for the sand.

For the evening casual clothes are quite suitable, as dress is informal.

Egypt is an Islamic society and women should dress modestly.

Eating and drinking
Traditional Egyptian food is simple and wholesome, but some hotels and restaurants still tend to favour international cuisine, with varying degrees of success. We do make efforts to include as much authentic local food on our tours as possible.

Egypt's national cuisine is largely based around salads, poultry, fish, lamb and beef. Despite having little understanding of vegetarianism, vegetarians fare well in Egypt due to the prevalence of salads and fresh vegetables. Meat is considered a wealthy person's food so does not always feature on the menus of simpler cafes and restaurants. Pastries and desserts are much loved and generally excelled at, especially during Ramadan when sweet treats are an essential part of breaking the daily fast.

Egyptian meals are sociable events and the tendency is to overprovide as a sign of generosity. Serving multiple plates on the table of salads, breads and hot and cold dishes encourages a sort of dining cameraderie – everybody has to offer and accept dishes from one another, making a meal a shared group experience.

As a muslim country, alcohol is not to be found everywhere and tends to carry a slight stigma (and therefore higher price) where it is served. Egypt does produce its own wine and beer, however, and these are usually found at the top of the drinks lists in establishments serving alcohol.

Language
English is not widely spoken outside the major tourist areas, though is generally enthusiastically attempted along with any other European language.

Egypt is an Arabic-speaking country, and its Egyptian dialect is the most widely understood variant of Arabic in the Middle East, largely due to its successful film insustry and influential media.

Arabic is divided into a spoken dialect and the Modern Standard Arabic used for writing. This written, more official version is based on the language of the Quran with rigorous grammar and one of the largest vocabularies of any language. The Arab world has a rich literary tradition, with Egypt playing a significant role in modern literary output.

Society
Women. Despite recent islamisation, Egyptian women are usually spirited and many are well-educated. However, there can be no doubt that they are to a great extent defined by their sex, so tend to dress and behave in a more 'feminine' fashion than their European counterparts. Women are queens of the domestic sphere, and there can be no doubt who is in charge at home, however in a courtroom a woman's testimony still counts for half a man's.

Men. Do regard themselves as occupying a higher role than a woman and are brought up more indulged than their sisters. Close interaction of men and women is frowned upon so men band together, forming close friendships and often hold hands in public. Due to rife unemployment, many men while away their days in coffee shops chatting, smoking and playing backgammon.

Foreigners should be aware of their behaviour towards members of the opposite sex in public; if in doubt, modesty is the best policy. Foreign women may find themselves the object of blatant advances from excited men hoping to find a westerner who lives up (or down) to his expectations.

Egypt displays a wide class spectrum from the super-rich, often from business in construction or oil, to the desperately poor. Of late the country has witnessed a growing percentage of middle class families. However, a more archaic attitude to class generally prevails - servants are fairly usual.

North-south divide. As in so many countries, Egypt's stereotypical character is split into generalisations for the north of the country and the south (Upper Egypt). Life is more basic and less rigid in the south, Sa'idis (Nubians) are famous for their friendliness but find themselves the butt of many jokes (much in the Englishman, Irishman, Scotsman vein), while those from the north consider themselves more cosmopolitan and astute.

Attitudes and (in)action
Ma'alish. Egypt is the land of ma'alish - a phrase that loosely translates as "never mind", employed whenever something does not go to plan or disappoints. The fact that it is surprisingly useful is as indicative of the frustrating nature of daily life as of the general good humour of Egyptians.

Bokra, inshallah, fi'l mishmish. Tomorrow, God willing. A tongue-in -cheek phrase used to procrastinate (fi'l mishmish is very hard to translate, it means “in the apricot”). Egyptians know themselves and their own nature well, and are happy to poke fun at their national character while living up to it.

As mentioned earlier, favours and rewards are very important to Egyptian culture, and following on from this, general procedures, bureaucracy and logistics work on a much more personal level than in Europe. Official protocol is never as important a factor in getting something done as who you know or how you ask. This freedom from the mechanics of a procedure is a mixed blessing bringing both frustration and a sense of liberty of the individual.

Egyptians are emotional and are not afraid of bombastic displays of friendship or gratitude. Long, warm greetings are exchanged between the most tenuous of aquaintances and showing good hospitality is paramount to the national character.

Politics and economy
President Hosni Mubarak has been in power since the assassination of Sadat in 1981. Mubarak is an economic liberal who has pursued good relations with Israel and the West.

Egypt used to typify the Middle Eastern presidential republic, where the people vote yes or no for an individual rather than a party. This generally leads to landslides in favour of the ruling candidate, with victories of less than 80% rare. In 2005 Egypt brought in multi-party elections, which represents a step towards a more Western style of democracy. However, currently the only other party with popular support is the extremist group the Muslim Brotherhood who are banned from political activity, so the situation effectively remains a one horse race.

Egypt enjoys an influential position in Middle Eastern politics and good international relations aided by its idiosyncratic mix of rich history, importance as a tourist destination, Islamic institutions, relations with the West, media industry and geographic location. Its economy is the second largest in the region after Saudi Arabia, and has strong resources in petroleum, cotton and, of course, tourism.

Miscellaneous information
Photography: camera restrictions vary from site to site and change constantly. The guide asks every time the group enters a site. Where necessary, tickets for the use of cameras and video equipment must be obtained and paid for independently.

Electricity: 220 volts AC (as in the UK). Plugs are standard Continental two-pin.

Shops and banks: shops are usually open daily from early morning to late evening in towns/sites frequented by visitors. Egyptian-owned banks usually open Monday-Thursday 8.30–14 & 17–20.  Some also open on Saturdays at these times and on Sundays from 10–12.Foreign banks usually open Monday-Thursday 8.30–13 and sometimes on Sundays.

Hotel check-out. This can be a lengthy procedure in Egypt and may take longer than you expect. Where possible, please try to settle your account the night before you depart from each hotel.

Local Guides. In Egypt all visitor groups are usually accompanied by a qualified local guide. Usually guides are the only people allowed to talk on site and foreigners trying to do so can be reprimanded by the 'tourist police'. The lecturers on our Egyptian tours therefore give formal lectures in the hotels and talks on the coach. They contribute on site where this is appropriate and possible. In the interests of conservation, lecturing is sometimes forbidden inside certain sites.

Water shortage. Throughout the Middle East there is a growing and often critical shortage of water. Tourists are rarely exposed to the consequent discomforts, but please be sparing in your use of water.

...Qualification
The necessary brevity of these paragraphs has resulted in some crass stereotyping. There are of course exceptions to every rule.