London to Extremadura. Fly at c. 11.00am from London Heathrow to Madrid. Drive south-west into Extremadura arriving at our farmhouse outside the village of Pago San Clemente in time for dinner. First of two nights in Pago San Clemente.

Pago San Clemente, Trujillo. Introductory lecture followed by the first walk: an unhurried, circular stroll from our finca through vines and fruit trees and then cross-country to a ridge with wide views (c. 8 km). Lunch is in the village bar. This is an area particularly favoured by ornithologists. In the afternoon visit nearby Trujillo, conquistador town and birthplace of Pizarro; magnificent main square, mansions, castle and the grand church of S. Martín.

Cabañas del Castillo to Navezuelas, total walk, c. 14 km. From the quartzite stumps and castle of Cabañas del Castillo, take a narrow path southwards, shoving at times through cistus bushes. A longish descent on good track follows, down into the first valley inside the mountain range. Climb again about 2 hours to a second ridge. Picnic here and descend by roughish path to little River Almonte below. Climb again half an hour to Navezuelas. Views are fine all day and we pass through holm oak and cork oak, olive and chestnut groves and last of all runner beans! Drive to the small mountain town of Guadalupe, hidden in the hills. First of two nights in Guadalupe.

Navezuelas to Guadalupe, total walk c. 15 km. From the beautifully-sited village of Navazuelas, climb to the ridge high above and descend into the Viejas Valley. Views of rock tops opposite, with multiple peaks along the ridge and large screes running down to tender pasture on the valley floor. Pass the point where monks made bronze and kept an ice-well to chill their summer wine. Walk into Guadalupe.

Guadalupe, Plasencia. Visit Guadalupe Monastery with splendid church, Mudéjar cloister and sacristy with a suite of paintings by Zurbarán. Drive to Plasencia. An afternoon stroll starts in the arcaded Plaza Mayor and includes the two Cathedrals, Renaissance and Gothic backing into one another (restoration work in progress). Three nights in Plasencia.

Plasencia to Riscos de Villavieja, total walk: c. 16 km. A gentle ascent along mediaeval tracks to mountain dehesa and grazing country, and up to the crags of Villavieja, complete with griffon vulture colony. Magnificent views down into the Jerte Valley and back to the Guadalupe mountains. Descent through oak woods ending for c. 2 km on concrete track.

Carcaboso to Cáparra, total walk: c. 19 km. A calm, delightful walk on the historic Via de la Plata, the pilgrimage route which leads from Seville to Santiago de Compostela and which closely follows the Roman road through the wilds of Western Spain. Classic dehesa and cattle country, rich in bird life, with a few of the blackfoot, acorn-eating, ham-producing pigs. Picnic in a cañada – a drover’s road – and end at the huge Roman arch of Cáparra.

Tornavacas to Jarandilla. Two options today: either walk c. 13 km on a beautiful route to Garganta del Infierno to the curious and lovely rock formations scooped out by the river like enormous saucepans, or walk c. 28 km to Jarandilla following the route taken by the emperor Charles V to retirement in Yuste. This is a serious and challenging walk. Climb through cherry orchards and oak woods and then drop to a mediaeval bridge before climbing again through zig-zags to the pass at the top of the Sierra de Tormantos (1500m). Here there is a sudden and immense view of Extremadura below. From this half-way point there remains a prolonged descent, steep at times though never frightening, straight into the Castle of Jarandilla (our hotel) and the residence of Charles V while his living quarters at Yuste were completed. Overnight Jarandilla.

Yuste Monastery. Our final visit is a moving insight into the last days of the man who once ruled most of Europe and Latin America. Drive to Madrid Airport. The flight arrives London Heathrow c. 5.45pm.