2012 itinerary:

Biarritz to Roncesvalles. Leave from Biarritz Airport following the arrival of the flight from London Stansted (currently 3.05pm) (flights are not included – see below). Drive to Roncesvalles for the night.

Roncesvalles to Lintzoáin/Erro, total walk 16 km. Weather permitting, we start at the summit of the pass and drop down on foot to Roncesvalles, traditional starting point of the pilgrimage in Spain. It has a fine collegiate church preserving memories of Sancho the Strong of Navarre. From here, walk downward through rustic, gentle sub-Pyrenean landscape and stately stone-built villages. After a picnic lunch, drive to the Monasterio de Yuso at S. Millán de la Cogolla. Overnight S. Millán.

Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, total walk 20 km. Drive to Nájera, another of the burial places of the royal house of Navarre. Climb through red sandstone with vines in rocky corners, through varied irrigated crops and out into rolling wheat country with mountains lying north and south - this is a good day for striding out. Lunch is in a village café. Afternoon walkers continue to Santo Domingo de la Calzada where there is time to visit the cathedral. Overnight Sto Domingo.

Villafranca Montes de Oca to Agés, total walk 15.8 km. Begin with an hour’s walk uphill into mildly mountainous country, passing a disturbing monument to victims of Civil War assassination. Cross a plateau and continue through pine and oak forest to a beautiful valley enclosing the monastery of San Juán de Ortega (fine Gothic church). Picnic in the woods. Afternoon walkers continue to the village of Agés. Drive to Burgos for the first of two nights.

Burgos, rest day. Rest, nurse feet and loiter in this Castilian city rich in memories of El Cid and mediaeval pilgrimage, Wellington and Franco. There is time to see the magnificent cathedral, the charterhouse of Miraflores (superb sculpture by Gil de Siloé), and the monastery of Las Huelgas (fine architecture and images relevant to the camino). Overnight Burgos. 

León, rest day. Drive to León with its fine Gothic cathedral and Spain’s finest stained glass. See also the church of San Isidoro, with unique Romanesque paintings. The Parador of S. Marcos, our hotel, is one of the major historic buildings of the pilgrim route Overnight León.

Puente de Orbigo to Astorga, total walk 18 km. About one hour into the walk, we make a modest ascent and suddenly the plains are over. There are two or three small climbs this morning through remote-feeling countryside and wheat fields ending in shady corners under small oaks. We picnic with views down to the cathedral of Astorga. Stalwarts continue the walk into town. Here, the bishop’s palace was designed by Gaudí and there is a charming town hall. Overnight Astorga.

Astorga to Rabanal del Camino, total walk 20.6 km. Walk out through Astorga’s old town. An hour and a half brings us to well-preserved Castrillo de Polvazares, former centre of the interesting Maragatos tribe, obscure in its origins but throughout history Northern Spain’s muleteers. A mix of path and lane leads slowly upwards with views opening into the mountains of León. After a picnic lunch continue walking to Rabanal del Camino. Drive from here to Villafranca del Bierzo where the night is spent.

Triacastela to Sarriá, total walk 18.5 km. Drive to Triacastela via O Cabreiro, first port of call in Galicia for pilgrims with Celtic buildings and ancient church. The walk starts low and climbs through Galician-green valley and into country of tiny hamlets where cows chew the cud in dark mediaeval sheds. Sunken tracks, ferns and ivy abound and there is later a fine upland feel. After a picnic lunch we begin a slow descent to Sarriá. Overnight Sarriá.

Sarriá to Ferreiros and Monte del Gozo to Santiago de Compostela, total walk 13 km. Walk from Sarriá to Ferreiros and take a picnic lunch before driving on to Monte del Gozo. Here pilgrims once fell to their knees at the first view of the cathedral spires of Santiago (harder to see now through eucalyptus). Walk through suburbs into increasingly ancient city centre and right into the Parador, another important and beautiful historic building. First of two nights in Santiago de Compostela.

Santiago. The cathedral is a Romanesque masterpiece with a magnificent carved portal. Here those who wish may attend Pilgrim’s mass at midday. The rest of the day is free.

Drive to La Coruña Airport in time for the flight to London Heathrow (currently departing at 2.40pm).

***This is the itinerary for 2012. The itinerary for 2011 differs slightly in that there are two nights spent in Villafranca and only one in Santiago de la Compostela. For more information please contact the office.