For much of the 19th century Paris was the opera capital of the world. There the most famous singers appeared and some of the most spectacular productions were staged. This was the home of grand opera, the city to which Bellini, Donizetti, Rossini, Verdi and Wagner came knowing that success in Paris was essential.

In the mid-19th century some French composers fared less well than visitors, though even Wagner was not much welcomed at first. Gounod was successful, while Berlioz’s operas were largely ignored. Even Bizet’s Carmen only gained success after it was performed in Vienna. Yet, the opening of the Palais Garnier in the 1870s heralded a golden age of French music in general and opera in particular. Paris was once again an operatic city to be reckoned with, hosting the operas of Dukas, Massenet, Chabrier, Debussy and others.

There will be three operas, perfectly placed in the three main Parisian operatic houses.

At the Opéra Comique, Bizet’s Les Pêcheurs de Perles, premièred in Paris’ Théâtre Lyrique in 1863. Success came slowly to this opera which is set in Ceylon about two young men in love with the same woman. The libretto creaks but the music scorches especially the famous duet ‘Au fond du temple saint’. It is said the manager of the Théâtre Lyrique told Bizet that had he known he was going to write such good music he would have given him another libretto.

In the airy modern space of the Opéra Bastille see Prokofiev’s L’Amour des Trois Oranges. It is a satirical opera, which premiered in Chicago in 1921. Its inception was international as the French libretto is based on a Russian translation of an Italian play. Tongues are never out of cheeks during this witty opera which is about a young prince, overwhelmed with sadness due to his over-indulgence in tragic poetry, being made to laugh by various Commedia dell’arte characters. Love comes and happiness comes to him eventually through his opening three magic oranges. The most famous number from the opera is its march.

Finally at the opulent Opéra Garnier, Rameau’s Hippolyte et Aricie. This great tragédie-lyrique was premiered in 1733 when its composer was 50 and this opera was his first. Based on Racine’s Phèdre the opera powerfully portrays the obsessive love of Phèdre for Hippolyte, the son of her husband Theseus, whom she thinks dead. Hippolyte in turn loves Aricie. Different gods back different characters, and Rameau explored some daring new harmonic devices for the trio of ‘Parques’ (Fates), but the lasting impression of the opera is magnificent dilemma of Queen Phèdre torn by inner demons and forging her own ill fate.

In addition to these evening operas, we visit other sites associated with the rich musical and operatic history of Paris, including the Opéra Garnier and the music museum at La Villette.

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