Overview
The landscapes of Brittany are variously dramatic, fertile and rugged, framed by jagged coasts or broad sands. The granite bedrock can be seen carved into poignant sixteenth-century churchyard calvaries and piled high in Quimper’s two spires. The wealth of stone tools that have been found confirm the early agricultural skills of prehistoric Bretons. Armorica stems from Ar Mor, literally land of the sea, to distinguish Brittany’s coasts from the forested interior, Ar Goat, that sheltered wolves, boar and deer as well as Druidic rites.
Over the centuries the fruits of its sea, fields, orchards and gardens fed their bodies and souls with a robust simplicity. Large tracts remained remote from and almost untouched by metropolitan France. In the late nineteenth century avant-garde artists came to see Brittany as an inspirational rural idyll and flocked from Europe, America and Australia. It was already popular when in 1888 Paul Sérusier, Emile Bernard and Paul Gauguin formed the School of Pont-Aven. Nearby, Monet painted the wild seas and rocks off Belle-Ile and met the critic who was to become his lifelong friend and biographer, Gustave Geffroy. Australian Impressionist John Peter Russell married Marianna Antoinetta Mattiocco, Rodin’s favourite model, and in 1889 built a house at Port Goulphar where they entertained Sisley, Matisse and numerous other artists. In 1894 Sarah Bernhardt took up summer residence in the Fort; her guest list was to include Edward VII. This tour presents a broad sweep of history, prehistory, art and landscape.
Day 1
Leave from Nantes Airport following the arrival of the flight from London Gatwick (Easyjet, currently 1.05pm) (the outbound flight is not included – see ‘Practicalities’) Catch the late afternoon ferry to Belle-Ile. Two nights are spent on the island: the hotel is on the site of Australian painter John Russell’s house and retains the views which inspired him to live, paint and host here for twenty years.
Day 2
Belle-Ile. Optional morning walk along the beautiful northern Côte Sauvage (c. 5 km), including a visit to the Musée Sarah Bernhardt and the fort that was her summer home at the Pointe des Poulains. Lunch in the small port of Sauzon. Afternoon walk in the footsteps of Monet to view the jagged Aiguilles de Port-Coton. Visit the contemporary Jardin la Boulaye that nestles in the sheltered heart of the island. Overnight Belle-Ile.
Day 3
Ile de Gavrinis, Locmariaquer. Return by ferry to mainland France. The 23 orthostats (upright stones) in the Cairn de l’Ile de Gavrinis have a wealth of symbolic patterns unmatched elsewhere. There are other stones at the Table des Marchands at nearby Locmariaquer. Overnight Carnac.
Day 4
Carnac, Quimper. Morning guided tour of the extraordinary wealth of orthostats and menhirs (standing stones) dating to c. 4600 bc. Drive north to Quimper where visits include the Musée des Beaux Arts with an exceptional collection of French paintings and drawings with a special emphasis on Brittany, the Pont Aven School, Max Jacob and Breton landscape and domestic scenes. The Musée Départemental Breton in the old Bishop’s Palace has a fine selection of faïencerie, archaeological finds, Breton costumes, lacework and furniture. The cathedral of St Corentin is the finest example of Gothic architecture in Brittany, with a sumptuous modern high altar in gilded and enamelled bronze.
Day 5
Around Quimper. An excursion to three very different gardens. Those of the Parc Botanique de Cornouaille were started in 1983 by M. Gueguen, a plant collector who worked for Hilliers in England. The setting of indigenous oak and pine trees provides a backdrop to a global collection of trees and shrubs. The Parc de Boutiguéry extends to 15 hectares along the banks of the River Odet where the owner has hybridised and bred new rhododendrons with colours infused with ‘warmth’. At the Manoir de Kérazan sweet chestnuts grow alongside pines, palms and flowering shrubs. The house is a showcase of Breton workmanship: fine collections of the Quimper faïencerie, Bigouden furniture and paintings by local artists.
Day 6
Pont-Aven. Towards the end of the 19th-cent. American artists discovered rural Pont-Aven. Walk in their footsteps from the Trémalo chapel that still harbours the 16th-cent. polychrome statue that inspired Gauguin’s Le Christ Jaune, through the Bois d’Amour to the town. The former Hotel Julia has been transformed into the Musée des Beaux Arts which encapsulates and displays the artistic journeys of the Pont-Aven school and its followers. Charles Filiger’s Paysage rocheux, Le Pouldu has inspired the Musée’s garden.
Day 7
Daoulas. Drive to the Abbaye de Daoulas with a good Romanesque cloister and monastically inspired herb gardens. The flight from Quimper to London City Airport (British Airways) arrives at c. 6.15pm.
Price, per person
Two sharing: £2,300 or £2,200 without the inbound flight. Single occupancy: £2,540 or £2,440 without the inbound flight.
Included
Airport transfer from Nantes (day 1) (an outbound flight is not included); inbound flight from Quimper to London City (economy class) with British Airways (aircraft: Embraer E170); coach travel, return ferry to Belle-Ile; accommodation as described below; breakfasts and 5 dinners with wine or beer, water and tea or coffee; all admissions; all tips; all taxes; the services of the lecturer and tour manager.
The outbound flight is not included in the cost of the tour as the most convenient is with Easyjet and we cannot make a booking without knowing the passenger name. We suggest flight EZY 8961, currently departing London Gatwick at 10.40am and landing in Nantes at 1.05pm. We can book the flight on your behalf, quoting the fare at the time of booking, or you can make the booking yourself.
Accommodation
Hotel Castel Clara, Belle-Ile is a 4-star spa hotel, with fine coastal views. Hotel Tumulus, Carnac: a 3-star hotel with an excellent restaurant. Best Western Hôtel Kregenn, Quimper: a functional 4-star hotel five minutes from the cathedral and museums. Single rooms are doubles for sole use.
How strenuous?
The tour involves a lot of walking and standing around. For some of the visits, vehicular access is restricted. The tour should not be attempted by anyone who has difficulty with everyday walking and stair– climbing. Sure-footedness and walking shoes are essential for the (optional) walk along the coast over unevenly paved ground. Some days involve a lot of driving. Average distance by coach per day: 44 miles.
Are you fit enough to join the tour?
Group size
Between 10 and 22 participants.
Travel advice
Before booking, please refer to the FCDO website to ensure you are happy with the travel advice for the destination(s) you are visiting.
