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The Erzgebirge is a forgotten region of eastern Germany. The mining which for centuries sustained Saxony as one of the richer territories of Europe has gone. The younger generation have deserted in droves. But you will rarely come across Germans who are more friendly. And appreciation of music seems to be something in their blood, not learnt, not a taste acquired, but lived and breathed.
Few of the town centres have been prettified, and though neglected and drear, the more perceptive visitor can enjoy the authentic, age-old vernacular. But it needs no special learning to be impressed by the huge Gothic churches at the centre of every community. Often at the highest point, reached up mossy steps and cobbled alleys, these are the venues for the remarkable Erzgebirge (‘ore mountains’) Musikfestival. It is the brainchild of Christoph Rademann, conductor of the Dresden Chamber Choir, the Dresden Baroque Orchestra and the RIAS Kammerchor. The aim is to bring good music to people who appreciate it, build a bridge between local tradition and international quality of performance and to bring together music, landscape and architecture. They want a mixed audience of locals, national fans (many come down from Berlin for the day) and a few foreigners. MRT was their first and only choice of English tour operator.
No such quota applies to musicians, with Harry Christophers’ Sixteen and the King’s Singers joining the Regensburg Domspatzen, the famed cathedral choir, as well as Rademann’s Dresden-based choir and orchestra all performing in 2012.
The landscape is a striking feature, an ever changing sequence of rolling hills, dramatic mountains, pine forests, undulating green pastures and flat grassland. Driving along the ever winding, rising and falling roads provides a stunning sequence of varied vistas.
