2012

London to Piedmont. Fly at c. 10.30am from London Gatwick to Genova and drive north to the market town of Bra, an attractive market town with some fine architecture. First of four nights in Bra.

Bra, Alba, Serralunga. Study the local wine-making process at the Ascheri winery adjacent to the hotel. There is a truffle seminar and lunch in Alba, chief town of the Langhe. The castle in Serralunga is one of the most dramatic in Le Langhe. Dinner in Pollenzo at a Michelin-starred restaurant. Overnight Bra.

Piozzo, Dogliani, La Morra. Truffle hunting in woods around Piozzo. The landscape between Dogliani and Murrazano is a patchwork of vineyards and rumpled hills, woods and pasturage. Lunch in Carrù, famous for its bollito misto. There is a tasting at Rocche Costamagna, a winery in the hilltop village of La Morra which has been in the family for 300 years, a well-known producer of Barolo and other Nebbiolo and Barbera wines. Dinner is independent in Bra (plenty of choice, including the hotel). Overnight Bra.

Asti. The lovely little city of Asti, centre of another famous wine and food area, is set amidst the gently undulating Monferrato hills. Barbera and Dolcetto grapes predominate, but white wines are also produced, including the sparkling Moscato d’Asti. Our gastronomic visits include a nougat producer. Lunch is at an outstanding restaurant, before time also to see something of the town: narrow, twisting mediaeval streets, the grand Gothic cathedral, tower houses and 18th-century palaces. Overnight Bra.

Bra, Cherasco, Cuneo. Most of the morning is free in Bra. There is the option of visiting a traditional sausage maker or a wine tasting. Alternatively, there is a guided walk of c. 6 km across the vine-clad hills of the Barolo region. Leave Bra for Cherasco, a little walled town with good architecture and the Italian capital of snail farming. Lunch at a family-run restaurant here followed by time to look around. In the castle at Manta there are some marvellous mediaeval frescos. Reaching Cuneo, settle into the hotel before a demonstration of Piedmontese pasta making. First of two nights in Cuneo.

Valle Grana, Castelmagno, Cuneo. The steep-sided valley of the river Grana is the sole source of one of Italy’s finest cheeses, Castelmagno. Visit farms to see aspects of its production. Continue to mountain pastures (c. 1,700 metres) above Castelmagno to a pilgrimage church for a mountain-top picnic of bread and cheese bought today and wine acquired during the week (wet-weather contingency planned). Back in Cuneo there is time to explore its magnificent Neo-Classical square, ancient arcaded streets and fine churches. Dinner is at a Michelin-starred restaurant. Overnight Cuneo.

Rivoli. Drive to Castello di Rivoli, one of the palaces of the royal house of Savoy established in hunting grounds around Turin. Rebuilt in the 18th century, though never finished, a museum of contemporary art has been installed here. Lunch here at one of the best restaurants in Piedmont, Combal Zero. On the way to the airport, briefly visit the recently restored and re-opened palace at Venaria. Fly from Turin, arriving London Gatwick at c. 6.15pm.