After the horrors of the First World War and the austerity that went with it, a thirst for pleasure infused Paris, spurred by its economic recovery. This resurgent energy stimulated Les Années Folles (The Crazy Years), a spirited artistic and intellectual response, reflected in new social mores, music, art, fashion and architecture. Paris became the undisputed cultural capital of the Western world, attracting artists and writers from every nation. The fruits of their creative endeavours are still evident in many forms across the city, in elegant restaurant interiors, spectacular public buildings and striking churches.
The sophisticated style that distinguishes the era, reached its apogee in the Exposition des Arts Décoratifs in 1925, which lent Art Deco its name. At the Musée des Arts Décoratifs are some of the most famous exhibits from the 1925 Exposition, as well as the lavish apartment of the couturière Jeanne Lanvin, with its outrageously decadent bathroom.
The extraordinary Palace of the Colonies (now Palais de la Porte Dorée), designed by Albert Laprade for the 1931 Exposition Coloniale, still houses live crocodiles in an aquarium beneath its sumptuous interiors. Meanwhile, the Palais de Tokyo, constructed for the Paris World Fair of 1937 boasts a comprehensive collection of the École de Paris, as well as two versions of Matisse’s La Danse.
At the under-visited but fascinating Musée des Années Trente we encounter Tamara de Lempicka’s portrait of her handsome and faithless husband, an oeuvre that she used to exact revenge on him by exhibiting it under the ambiguous title, Portrait d’un homme inachevé. Hers is one of many stories of the artists and colourful personalities of the Années Folles revealed in the course of this tour. Our appreciation of this glittering moment in Parisian history is further crystalised over dinners at the glamorous Art Deco restaurants, which saw it all.
Take the Eurostar from London St Pancras to Paris at c. 10.30am. Continue by coach to Maison La Roche, an early masterpiece of Le Corbusier, built between 1923 and 1925. Visit the impressive church of Sainte Odile, designed in an Art Deco Byzantine style by Jacques Barge. Return to the hotel for dinner.
The church of Saint Pierre de Chaillot was completed in 1938. Continue on foot to the Palais de Tokyo, which houses the City of Paris Museum of Modern Art and an important collection of fine and decorative arts from the interwar period. The permament collection is currently closed for renovation, due to reopen in Autumn 2019. In the afternoon, the Musée de l’Orangerie holds the celebrated circular paintings of water lilies by Monet, as well as the magnificent Walter Guillaume collection. Walk through the Tuileries Gardens to the Louvre complex where the Musée des Arts Décoratifs houses the most important and comprehensive collection of decorative art in France.
Begin at the church of Saint Esprit designed by Paul Tournon, followed by the spectacular Palais de la Porte Dorée, which once hosted the Exposition Coloniale. There is time afterwards for independent exploration of the museum’s permanent collection or the basement aquarium. In the afternoon, visit the Musée des Années Trente, which presents a wide ranging collection of interwar French art and design. The Belmondo Museum is devoted to the work of the sculptor Paul Belmondo, father of the film star, Jean Paul Belmondo.
The Musée Bourdelle, in the former studios of Antoine Bourdelle, displays the work of the most distinguished French sculptor of the generation to follow Rodin. The delightful and quirky Phono Museum celebrates the early history of recorded sound. Return to London by Eurostar, arriving at c. 6.00pm.
Historian, writer and broadcaster. He studied at UCL and the Courtauld and was senior lecturer at Christies Education for many years. He has worked for the Art Fund, Royal Opera House, National Gallery, V&A. He has published on 19th- and early 20th-century painting and on historical vocal recordings. His latest book is Music Wars: 1937–1945.
Price, per person
Two sharing: £1,720 or £1,550 without Eurostar. Single occupancy: £1,990 or £1,820 without Eurostar.
Two sharing: £1,740 or £1,590 without Eurostar. Single occupancy: £2,030 or £1,880 without Eurostar.
Return rail travel (Standard Premier) by Eurostar from London to Paris; private coach for transfers; hotel accommodation; breakfasts, 1 lunch and 2 dinners with wine, water, coffee; all tips; all admissions; all taxes; the services of the lecturer and tour manager.
Hotel Édouard 7, Paris: a comfortable 4-star hotel, located on the Avenue de l’Opéra, a short walk from the Louvre. Single rooms are doubles for sole use.
Visits require a fair amount of walking and standing around. You need to be able to lift your luggage on and off the train.
Between 10 and 22 participants.
Before booking, please refer to the FCO website to ensure you are happy with the travel advice for the destination(s) you are visiting: www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice.
Combine with London Day: Interwar Interiors, 8 October 2019.