Gastronomic Navarra - Spain’s kitchen garden

Fly at c. 9.15am (Iberia) from London Heathrow to Madrid. Continue by coach to Zaragoza (c. 3 1/2 hours), arriving in time for dinner. First of two nights in Zaragoza.

Capital of neighbouring Aragón, Zaragoza lies just 50 km from the border with Navarra. From here, trade, information and people flowed along the Ebro valley into Navarra during the Middle Ages. Roman, Arab and Christian monuments offer a snapshot of Spanish history and the various civilisations that settled here. Lunch includes recipes inspired by Juan Altamiras, a Aragonese friar and the ‘18th-century Ferran Adrià’. His recipe book from 1745 revolutionised Spanish gastronomy, with ideas so ahead of their time that they are not out of place today. A group of Aragonese chefs continues to pay homage to his original recipes on their own menus.

Drive north along the Ebro valley into Navarra. Visit an organic olive oil farm; Navarra is Spain’s most northerly olive oil growing region, with a production that is smaller than its southern rivals but of exceptional quality. The floodplains around Tudela produce the finest vegetables in all of Spain, which are celebrated above all else in Navarrese cuisine, and renowned across the country. Chef Luis Salcedo leads a visit of his vegetable garden, before we taste his exquisite produce for lunch at his restaurant, Remigio. Continue north to Pamplona for the first of six nights. Evening walk via some of the city’s bustling pintxos bars, which rival anything in San Sebastián.

A morning spent exploring the Navarrese capital, and walking the streets of the famous San Fermín bull-running route. Pamplona cathedral has a cloister which constitutes perhaps the finest achievement of High Gothic architecture in Spain, while the Museum of Navarra, housed within a medieval hospital, has an eclectic collection of archaeological finds and artworks. Lunch is at Europa (1 Michelin star), perhaps the most classic restaurant in all of Navarra, which has held a Michelin star since 1993.

Today we visit several of the spectacularly-sited hilltop villages and medieval towns to the south of Pamplona. First to Máximo Abete, a family run winery that has revitalised the abandoned vineyards on the slopes around their hometown of San Martín de Unx. Rustic lunch at a humble restaurant-cum-bakery in Ujué, with sweeping views over the surrounding hills and valleys. Afternoon visit to Olite, where the royal palace served as the seat of the Kings of Navarra until its conquest by Castile in the 16th century. 

Just outside Pamplona, Otazu is a winery that combines striking architecture, an impressive contemporary art collection, and wines of superb quality, holding the prestigious pago classification. Continue to the medieval riverside town of Estella for some free time. Return to Pamplona via Eunate, where a mysterious round chapel with encircling arcade rises from the midst of a cornfield. For dinner we have privileged access to one of Pamplona’s historic gastronomic societies, as guests of the club’s president.

Scenic drive north into the foothills of the Pyrenees. The mountain pass above Roncesvalles offers views across the border into France, and is the traditional starting point of the Camino de Santiago. The Selva de Irati is the second largest fir and beech forest in Europe. The spectacular landscapes here are home to a rich variety of species including deer, wild boar, vultures and golden eagles. On a gentle walk through the forest we observe the myriad varieties of mushrooms that grow on the mossy forest floor, before tasting them for lunch at a nearby casa rural.

Perched on a hillside overlooking Pamplona, the Jorge Oteiza Museum houses a collection of works by the renowned 20th-century sculptor. Continue for a final lunch at El Molino de Urdániz, the only restaurant in Navarra to hold two Michelin stars (plus a Michelin green star). Chef David Yárnoz is at the forefront of Navarrese culinary creativity and innovation, while also showcasing local produce and traditions.

Drive to Bilbao (c. 2 hours) for an afternoon flight to London Heathrow (Vueling), arriving at c. 2.45pm.