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The Bach Journey - A journey exploring the music of J.S. Bach through the places he lived and worked in central Germany
- Nine concerts by some of the finest Bach interpreters in the world, from the UK and continental Europe.
- Renowned ensembles Dunedin Consort, Vox Luminis, Solomon’s Knot and The Marian Consort all appear.
- Hear the Brandenburg Concertos in Schloss Köthen where they were written, the deeply moving St John Passion in Weimar, and the monumental B minor Mass in Leipzig.
- Keyboard works by superb harpsichordist Mahan Esfahani and on an organ from Bach’s time in Sangerhausen.
- Choose from range of hotel options in each of the three hotel bases: Eisenach/Mühlhausen, Weimar and Leipzig.
- Daily talks by leading Bach experts Professor John Butt and Sir Nicholas Kenyon.
Journeying to the places where Johann Sebastian Bach lived and worked is an experience as near to pilgrimage as the history of music offers.
For this, the tenth Bach Journey, we have assembled artists and ensembles from Britain and continental Europe who are world leaders in this repertoire.
The superb Dunedin Consort appear in both Köthen, to play the dazzling Brandenburg Concertos in the very place they were likely written, and also in Mühlhausen with an intimate sonata programme.
Vox Luminis perform in the Georgenkirche in Eisenach where Bach was a chorister, in Weimar we hear the deeply emotive St John Passion.
We hear keyboard works by renowned harpsichordist Mahan Esfahani and on an organ from Bach’s time in Sangerhausen.
The Marian Consort team up with lively period instrument ensemble Spiritato, and Solomon’s Knot complete the festival with a performance of the monumental B-minor Mass in the Nikolaikirche in Leipzig.
There are daily talks on the music by an array of speakers, including Professor John Butt and Sir Nicholas Kenyon.
The festival is emphatically a journey. It starts, as did Bach, in the little towns and cities of the principality of Thuringia and finishes, again like Bach, in the free city of Leipzig. The entire audience stays in hotels in three places: Eisenach or Mühlhausen, Weimar and then Leipzig, and the concerts take place here and in other towns.
Hearing his works in buildings which he frequented, performed by some of the finest international interpreters, must rank among the highest delights available to music lovers. This unique festival provides the opportunity.
Discover the place
Less than a century elapsed between the first record of a Bach in Thuringia and the birth there of Johann Sebastian in 1685.
By then the exceptional musical and procreative talents of the family had led to the prominence of several Bachs as professional musicians throughout the region. Not only was Johann Sebastian firmly embedded in the family tradition, for the first half of his working life he plied his trade in the same provincial German backwater as the rest of his clan.
Thuringia is – as it was in Bach’s time – a region of rolling hills, deciduous woodland, patchwork fields, compact red-roofed villages and proud little towns. Being then divided into some of the smallest city-states and princedoms of pre-unification Germany, and later only patchily affected by the ravages of industrialisation and war, its appearance remained little changed throughout the 20th century.
These are the towns where Bach grew up and where he plied his trade, the locations of his quotidian concerns as well as the exercise of his genius. Merely to walk the same streets and sit in the same pews is to enlarge and illumine one’s understanding of Bach’s music. To hear his compositions not only in the locale but in the very buildings where they were first performed is a life-enhancing experience.
Forty years in the chill embrace of the Communist state further impeded ‘progress’. All this gives rise to a strange paradox: though at the geographical centre of Germany, Europe’s economic powerhouse, Thuringia feels strangely provincial and peripheral.
For those who knew East Germany before 1989, the subsequent changes appear little short of miraculous – major transformation of infrastructure, buildings painted and restored, recrudescence of commercial and social life on a par with anywhere else in Europe.
Videos
Brochure
Musicians
Programme
You could opt to take one of our group flights from Heathrow to Frankfurt (see page 20; each flight option is linked to your choice of town for the first two nights), and then one of our transfers from Frankfurt to Eisenach or Mühlhausen, or make your own way there. Lunch or afternoon tea during the coach journey are included. See page 18 for accommodation options.
J.S. Bach was born in Eisenach in 1685 and he was raised here until the death of his father ten years later. He was baptised in the Gothic church of St George – the font remains in use – and the interior is as Bach would have known it. Eisenach is dominated by the Wartburg castle, a unesco World Heritage Site where Martin Luther stayed while working on his translation of the Bible.
Mühlhausen is where Bach held the post of organist at the church of St Blasius 1707–8. The town is a delight, a dense matrix of streets and alleys and little open spaces threaded between half-timbered and stone buildings. Six Gothic churches rise heavenwards, and all is bounded by a complete circuit of walls.
The first festival event is dinner in your hotel or nearby restaurant.
Overnight in Eisenach or Mühlhausen.
The morning begins with the first of Professor John Butt’s talks. He later performs for us in Mühlhausen’s Town Hall, a charming set of rooms which is little changed since Bach’s time. The modest size of the main hall requires the audience to be split and the event repeated; some attend in the late morning and others after dinner.
Concert, 11.30am & 9.00pm:
Mühlhausen, Town Hall
Trios & Sonatas
John Butt harpsichord
Dunedin Consort
It was in Mühlhausen that Bach started to experiment with the keyboard as an obbligato instrument, playing in consort with other solo lines. All four pieces performed reflect this heritage, the first and last (trio sonatas BWV 526, BWV 529) surviving as organ sonatas, which are easily converted into instrumental trios, and the central pieces (BWV 1019, BWV 1029) displaying the harpsichord as equal soloist with a melody instrument.
Bach’s chamber music often appears in multiple versions, suggesting that it is designed to be flexible enough for different circumstances of performance. What is common to all pieces, though, is the sense of a conversation in which the lines seem to have been destined to interlock with one another, while seeming to accomplish this with the utmost spontaneity.
Lunch is provided for all participants.
There is time in Eisenach to visit the excellent Bach Museum. The new wing wraps around a house which used to be believed to be his birthplace.
Concert, 3.30pm:
Eisenach, Church of St George
The Bach Dynasty
Vox Luminis
Lionel Meunier director
In the church where Johann Sebastian was baptised, there is a concert of cantatas by older members of the Bach family, presenting the sound world into which he was born. These are great uncle Johann Bach (1604–73) and uncles Johann Michael (1648–94) and Johann Christoph (1642–1703, also organist at this church). It finishes with a motet from Johann Sebastian, the famous Jesu meine Freude (BWV 227).
Dinner for all participants, and overnight in Eisenach or Mühlhausen.
Leave Eisenach and Mühlhausen and drive to Ohrdruf.
After the death of his father, Johann Sebastian lived in Ohrdruf for five years with his eldest brother, Johann Christoph, organist to the local lord. The recital takes place in the refurbished hall of the rambling ducal Schloss on the edge of the tiny town, home to the brother’s employer.
Recital, 11.00am:
Ohrdruf, Schloss Ehrenstein
Soloist to be confirmed
Programme to be confirmed.
Drive on to Arnstadt, arriving in time for lunch. Bach’s first significant employment (1707–08) was as organist here.
Spreading across a hillside, Arnstadt has retained much of its ancient centre, a picturesque mélange stretching back to the Middle Ages. Among the places of interest is a small Bach museum and the Romanesque-Gothic Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Lady).
The venue is the church where Bach was organist early in his career. The interior is as close to lavish as a Lutheran parish church dared get, with walls and galleries wrapped in white and gold panelling.
Concert, 4.00pm:
Arnstadt, Bachkirche
Bach the Borrower
The Marian Consort
Spiritato
Rory McCleery director
Bach’s musical ‘borrowing’ takes us on a journey which begins with his extraordinary re-working of a motet by Johann Kuhnau. Following this is the excitingly virtuosic Mass in G major, a work whose every movement borrows from earlier cantatas. The second half begins with one of these cantatas, the striking Wer Dank opfert, der preiset mich, and the programme ends with BWV 23 Du Wahrer Gott und Davids Sohn. This final cantata has the melody of the Lutheran Kyrie woven through it, most prominently in the astonishing final movement, which Bach rated so highly that he later borrowed it for his revised version of the St John Passion.
Drive on to Weimar, where two nights are spent.
Adorned with a magnificent range of classical architecture and landscaped parks, Weimar is the loveliest of Thuringian towns as well as the liveliest.
It has few rivals among the smaller cities of Europe for its importance in the history of literature and music. Bach worked at the court here in 1703 and again 1708–17. Liszt’s period of residence (1842–61) attracted many musical visitors including Wagner, Brahms, Smetana and Borodin, and turned Weimar into an international centre of the musical avant-garde. Richard Strauss was court Kapellmeister 1889–94.
Weimar is also revered as a centre of literature and Enlightenment thought, largely owing to the sixty-year residence and service at court of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. Herder, Schiller and Nietzsche are among the other great names to have spent time here. As the last home of Lucas Cranach and the first site of the Bauhaus school, the city also has significance in the history of the visual arts.
There is a morning talk by Nicholas Kenyon, and time to wander through the enchanting streets and squares and for exploring one or two of the many museums.
The most important church in Weimar, St Peter and Paul (Herderkirche) was where four of Bach’s children were baptised. Its present appearance has changed little since the 18th century, and a striking altarpiece by Lucas Cranach dominates the chancel.
Concert, 4.00pm:
Weimar, Church of St Peter & Paul
St John Passion
Vox Luminis
Lionel Meunier director
The story of Christ’s Passion is both sublimely numinous and deeply human, and in no other manifestation of human creativity is the drama so potently and movingly presented as in Bach’s surviving settings. Of the two, the St John is the earlier and the more compact and dramatic. A performance in an appropriate liturgical space can be a transcendent experience.
Dinner is independent this evening.
Second of two nights in Weimar.
Leave Weimar for Sangerhausen, a small town which has retained much of its historic fabric and possesses a fine organ of Bach’s time.
Recital, 11.15am:
Sangerhausen, Church of St James
Martina Pohl organ
The instrument for today’s recital of pieces for organ by J.S. Bach was built in 1726 by Zacharias Hildebrandt, pupil and rival of Gottfried Silbermann and occasional collaborator with Bach.
After lunch in Sangerhausen, the journey continues to Köthen.
Köthen (Cöthen) was the scene of some of Bach’s happiest and most fruitful years. Here from 1717 to 1723 he was in the employ of the young music-loving Prince Leopold of Anhalt-Köthen and it was probably for his sizeable and highly skilled orchestra that the Brandenburg Concertos were written. Some of them are performed in a concert this afternoon in the prince’s rambling Schloss.
Concert, 4.00pm:
Köthen, Schloss Köthen, Spiegelsaal
Brandenburg Concertos
Dunedin Consort
Bach’s Brandenburg Concertos represent some of the most eclectic ensemble works of the era, exploring a wide range of instruments. Among those we will hear in this performance, the Second is the most diverse, with violin, oboe, recorder and trumpet soloists, the latter reaching the heights of baroque brass virtuosity. In the Fourth an active solo violinist is set off against the sweeter sound of two recorders, while the homogeneous string ensemble of the Third allows for extensive playful dialogue between performers.
Travel on to Leipzig.
Bach was employed by the city council at Leipzig in 1723 with the brief to take charge of music at the principal churches. Together with his various additional responsibilities, he effectively became director of music for the city until his death in 1750.
Dinner for all participants.
First of two nights in Leipzig.
Leipzig is the only large city of the Journey – though with a population of just half a million, and a historic centre which can be traversed in fifteen minutes, it is not a metropolis. After the degradation of the GDR years, the subsequent transformation of the city seems little short of miraculous. Restoration and rebuilding have gone hand in hand with the emergence of pavement cafés, smart shops and good restaurants.
There are excellent museums here including an outstanding collection of musical instruments at the Grassi Museum, an impressive display of paintings at the Museum of Fine Arts, a well-refurbished apartment where Mendelssohn lived and the enthralling museum attached to the Bach Archive.
There is a morning talk and recital in the Salles de Pologne, a Neo-Baroque hall of the 19th century.
Recital, 11.00am:
Leipzig, Salles de Pologne
Goldberg Variations
Mahan Esfahani harpsichord
Programme to be confirmed.
The afternoon is free until dinner and the final concert.
One of the four Leipzig churches where Bach was in charge of music, the Nikolaikirche is a Gothic construction of the early-16th century which underwent a spectacular Neo-Classical transformation in the late 18th century.
Concert, 8.00pm:
Leipzig, Nikolaikirche (Church of St Nicholas)
Mass in B Minor
Solomon’s Knot
Bach’s B-Minor Mass is among the greatest achievements in the history of music. Compiled and completed towards the end of his life, Bach may have regarded it as a summation of his life’s work. Whatever its enigmas – was it intended to be performed in its entirety? why did this stalwart Lutheran steer so close to Catholic tradition? – it remains a work of exceptional potency and beauty.
Final night in Leipzig.
Depending on your flight option there may be further free time in Leipzig.
Expert speakers
Professor John Butt OBE
Lecturer, writer and musician, specialising in historical performance. Professor of Music at Glasgow University, director of the Dunedin Consort, and guest-conductor with the Orchestra of the Age of Enlightenment among others. He was awarded the OBE in 2013.
More tours led by Professor John Butt OBE
Sir Nicholas Kenyon
Managing Director of the Barbican Centre since 2007; former Controller of BBC Radio 3 and Director of the BBC Proms. He has been music critic for The New Yorker and The Observer, music editor of The Listener and editor of Early Music. He is author of the Faber Pocket Guides to Bach and Mozart, and edited Authenticity & Early Music and The City of London: a companion guide. Twitter: @NickRKenyon
More tours led by Sir Nicholas Kenyon
Practicalities
The price includes:
— All nine concerts.
— Accommodation for six nights – choose between four hotel options. See page 18.
— All breakfasts, five dinners, three or four lunches (depending on flight option), and interval drinks.
— Talks on the music by Professor John Butt and Sir Nicholas Kenyon.
— All coach transfers.
— The assistance of festival staff and a detailed programme booklet.
Optional extras:
— A pre-festival tour, 'Organs of Bach's time'.
— Arriving a day early in your festival hotel.
Category A
Arriving a day early (27 September):
Two sharing: US$4,950 per person
Single occupancy: US$5,230
Arriving on the first day of the festival (28 September):
Two sharing: US$4,830 per person
Single occupancy: US$5,070
Category B
Arriving a day early (27 September):
Two sharing: US$5,490 per person
Single occupancy: US$5,850
Arriving on the first day of the festival (28 September):
Two sharing: US$5,370 per person
Single occupancy: US$5,690
Category C
Arriving a day early (27 September):
Two sharing: US$6,080 per person
Single occupancy: US$6,600
Arriving on the first day of the festival (28 September):
Two sharing: US$5,930 per person
Single occupancy: US$6,360
Category D
Arriving a day early (27 September):
Two sharing: US$6,590 per person
Single occupancy: US$7,380
Arriving on the first day of the festival (28 September):
Two sharing: US$6,440 per person
Single occupancy: US$7,020
Flights: if you choose to take one of the offered flight options, there is an additional cost of US$360 per person.
Flights from London Heathrow are offered – all options fly into Frankfurt and back from Berlin.
If you select hotel option A or B, you can travel on flight options 1, 3 or 5.
If you select hotel option C or D, you can travel on flight options 2, 4 or 6.
There is the option to fly out on the 27 September, the day before the festival begins – see details in 'prices, per person'.
Festival flight options
Arriving a day early:
Option 1 – hotel options A & B
27 September: depart Heathrow 09.30, arrive Frankfurt 12.05 (LH 901)
4 October: depart Berlin 11.45, arrive Heathrow 12.50 (BA 983)
Option 2 – hotel options C & D
27 September: depart Heathrow 10.30, arrive Frankfurt 13.05 (LH 903)
4 October: depart Berlin 13.55, arrive Heathrow 14.55 (BA 993)
Arriving on the first day of the festival:
Option 3 – hotel options A & B
28 September: depart Heathrow 09.30, arrive Frankfurt 12.05 (LH 901)
4 October: depart Berlin 11.45, arrive Heathrow 12.50 (BA 983)
Option 4 – hotel options C & D
28 September: depart Heathrow 10.30, arrive Frankfurt 13.05 (LH 903)
4 October: depart Berlin 13.55, arrive Heathrow 14.55 (BA 993)
Option 5 – hotel options A & B
28 September: depart Heathrow 11.00, arrive Frankfurt 13.45 (LH 904)
4 October: depart Berlin 16.35, arrive Heathrow 17.30 (BA 985)
Option 6 – hotel options C & D
28 September: depart Heathrow 11.30, arrive Frankfurt 14.05 (LH 905)
4 October: depart Berlin 16.35, arrive Heathrow 17.30 (BA 985)
The no-flights option:
You can choose not to take any of our flight options and to make your own arrangements for joining and leaving the festival. You are welcome to join our airport coach transfers if your flights coincide with any of the options above.
Pre-festival tour:
The price for the pre-festival tour offers the option of a return flight – out at the start of the tour, and back at the end of the festival.
All pre-festival tour participants return to the UK on festival flight option 1.
We charge for flights, if you are taking them, as part of your pre-festival tour booking. You therefore pay the ‘no flights’ price for the festival.
The audience stays in three different towns during the course of the festival.
Choose between four different hotel options, A–D – see below.
If you intend to share a twin room with a friend, the best options are C and D (due to visibility of the bathroom from the bedroom area at the Park and Radisson Blu hotels in Leipzig, as well as a very limited number of twin rooms at the Brauhaus zum Löwen in Mühlhausen).
Mühlhausen or Eisenach:
27 or 28–30 September (two nights, or three if arriving a day early)
Depending on which hotel option you choose (A–D), you stay for the first two or three nights in either Mühlhausen or Eisenach.
Mühlhausen has few hotels. Categories A & B stay in the same 3-star hotel. The bathrooms have showers only. Double beds consist of two mattresses on a single base, and there are very few actual twin rooms. The hotel does not have air conditioning.
In Eisenach, both Categories C & D stay in a well-appointed hotel in the centre. Bathrooms are baths with shower fitments. Double rooms largely consist of two separate beds.
Weimar:
30 September–2 October (two nights)
Weimar has a very good range of 3-, 4- and 5-star hotels. A small city, the hotels we have selected are no more than 10 or 15 minutes’ walk from the venue. There is no air-conditioning at the Anna Amalia (Option A) but windows can be opened. Nearly every room at each of the four hotels is accessible by lift.
Leipzig:
2–4 October (two nights)
Leipzig, as a trade fair city, has a good selection of hotels of all categories though some lack individuality. We have selected ones within the periphery of the medieval core of the city; none is more than 15 or 20 minutes on foot from the venues. All have air-conditioning.
Option A
Mühlhausen: Brauhaus zum Löwen. An old timber-framed building of great character in the centre of town. Rooms are either in the main building or in a modern annex, 3 minutes walk away. The modern buildings may be less characterful, but all rooms are spacious. There is a lift to some rooms but not all.
Weimar: Anna Amalia. A family-run hotel in a quiet cobbled street in the centre of town. Rooms are simply furnished with cream walls and light wood furniture. Bedrooms vary in size. All rooms have a shower and there is lift access to all floors.
Leipzig: Seaside Park Hotel. A modern and comfortable hotel. The quirky design uses plenty of wood and is vaguely nautical. Bedrooms are a good size. Bathrooms are open to the rest of the bedroom, although the lavatory is in a separate room. There is a good restaurant. Every floor is accessible by lift.
Option B
Mühlhausen: Brauhaus zum Löwen. Same as option A.
Weimar: Dorint am Goethepark. Comprising two historic houses connected by a new addition, this is a modern hotel pleasantly situated by the park and a short walk from the town centre. Décor is a little austere, but the rooms elegant and comfortable. There is a restaurant in the hotel. All rooms have air conditioning and can be reached by lift. The majority of rooms have a bathtub rather than a walk-in shower.
Leipzig: Radisson Blu. A modern hotel, purpose-built in 1964 and completely renovated in 2006. It is situated on the Ring overlooking Augustusplatz and the Gewandhaus. Geared more to the business market, its interior of cool elegance is nevertheless comfortable. Beds can be divided into twins, but there may not be much space between them. Bathrooms are open to the bedroom (though the lavatory cannot be seen).
Option C
Eisenach: Vienna House by Wyndham Thüringer Hof. A large, centrally-located hotel. Bedrooms (Superior category) are bright and simply decorated. Two restaurants, a bar, as well a spa with sauna, exercise room and rooftop terrace. There is no air-conditioning. Double rooms have two separate mattresses attached to one another.
Weimar: Best Western Premier Grand Hotel Russischer Hof. An elegant hotel dating to 1805 and furnished in a partially modernised, opulent Russian Neo-Classical style. Impressive public areas and restaurants, comfortable rooms with generally spacious bathrooms, excellent location. All rooms are air-conditioned and accessible by lift.
Leipzig: Marriott. A traditional hotel decorated in marble, wood and brass. Rooms are spacious with cosy, country-style furnishings and all mod cons. Centrally-located but quiet. There is a swimming pool, and lift access to all floors.
Option D
Eisenach: Vienna House by Wyndham Thüringer Hof. Same as option C (Deluxe category rooms).
Weimar: Hotel Elephant. Famous, historic establishment blending classical gravity with contemporary understatement. Bedrooms are spacious and very well equipped, with smart, modern décor and bathrooms with showers. The hotel houses the AnnA restaurant, the finest in Weimar.
Leipzig: Steigenberger Icon Grandhotel Handelshof. A converted former exhibition building located next to the Old Stock Exchange and a stone’s throw from the market square. Rooms are decorated in a clean and contemporary style. Views are of the internal courtyard or the city. There is a spa and fitness area. There are some slightly ostentatious modern design features. All rooms have walk-in showers and many also have a bathtub.
This is a physically demanding festival and fitness is essential.
Within the towns and cities, you will be expected to walk for anything up to 25 minutes and at a pace which is unlikely to slow others down when moving together. Many surfaces are uneven or cobbled and there are some ascents and descents. You will need to climb stairs at some venues and hotels, check in and out of three hotels and be comfortable travelling considerable distances by coach, particularly on the first and last days.
We are very happy to talk you through each day’s manoeuvres, as these differ festival to festival, to identify if it may be necessary to opt out at any point.
We ask that you take the simple fitness tests before booking.
Are you fit enough to join the festival?
If you have a medical condition or a disability which may affect your holiday or necessitate special arrangements being made for you, please discuss these with us before booking – or, if the condition develops or changes subsequently, as soon as possible before departure.
Private. All the performances are planned and administered by us, and the audience consists exclusively of those who have taken the festival package.
Seating. Specific seats are not reserved. You sit where you want.
Audience size. There will be up to 180 participants on the festival. One of our venues cannot hold this number, and so the performance will be repeated.
Acoustics. This festival is more concerned with locale and authenticity than with acoustic perfection. The venues may have idiosyncrasies or reverberations of the sort not found in modern concert halls.
Changes. Musicians fall ill, venues may close for repairs, airlines alter schedules: there are many circumstances which could necessitate changes to the programme. We ask you to be understanding should they occur.
Before booking, please refer to the FCDO website to ensure you are happy with the travel advice for the destination(s) you are visiting.
Organs of Bach's time, 23–28 September 2026.
Dates & prices
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2026
Date
Speaker
Price
Date:
28th September - 4th October 2026
Speaker:
Professor John Butt OBE & Sir Nicholas Kenyon
Price:
from US$4,830
(Based on two sharing)Testimonials
“For me, a life long lover of the music of Bach, the week was unadulterated bliss, like a week cut out from normal life. I applaud what Martin Randall Travel does for music lovers.
”
“The talks by Sir Nicholas Kenyon were memorably lively, informative and beautifully presented. They were well calibrated to the progress of the Bach Journey and culminated in a masterly final talk...
”
“I absolutely loved my first experience with MRT and have recommended it highly to my friends. As a Bach fanatic I was already looking forward to it before I went but it exceeded my expectations.
”
“Astonishing line-up of concerts in wonderful places... meandering through those small Thuringian towns was most moving and helped give a picture of the world Bach lived in.
”
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