Spreading across a plain at the foot of the Alps and along the upper reaches of the River Po, the gracious, spacious capital of Piedmont takes visitors by surprise with the beauty of its location and its streetscape.
Turin was developed on a grand scale in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries as the capital of Savoy, an independent state from the Middle Ages and a kingdom from 1720. Later exchanges of territory led to the title of Kingdom of Sardinia. In the nineteenth century Piedmont became administratively and industrially the most advanced state in Italy, and the springboard for the risorgimento. Turin was the first capital of the newly united and independent Italy, 1861–65.
The historic centre is laid out on a regular plan with broad avenues and piazze of remarkable architectural homogeneity. Guarino Guarini (1624–83) and Filippo Juvarra (1678–1736), among the best architects of their time, both worked here for much of their lives.
Though once a major industrial centre (a reputation which has unjustly deterred cultural tourists), this is not evident in the centre. Within Italy Turin now has a reputation for a high quality of life, and is repositioning itself as one of the major cultural centres in the north of the country.
The 2006 Winter Olympics were the catalyst for an extensive programme of civic regeneration and restoration. The proximity to the mountains not only brings visual benefits but helps to make the city one of the most agreeable in Italy in which to live.
Fly at c. 10.30am from London Heathrow to Milan Linate (British Airways). Drive to Stupinigi and visit the royal hunting lodge (Filippo Juvarra, 1730). Continue to Turin where all six nights are spent.
Turin. Begin with a walk through the beautiful, arcaded Piazza San Carlo. The Palazzo Carignano has a remarkable curvaceous facade by Guarini. Piazza Castello is splendid, the greatest of the buildings being Palazzo Madama by Filippo Juvarra (1721), now housing the art gallery. Palazzo Reale, the principal royal residence, is largely of the late 17th cent. but has interiors of the 18th and 19th cents. Housed here are masterpieces from the Galleria Sabauda.
Agliè, Turin. The Castello di Agliè to the north of Turin was rebuilt as a ducal palace in 1646 and further refurbished in the 18th and early 19th cents. In the afternoon visit the Pinacoteca Giovanni and Marella Agnelli at Lingotto which has a small but excellent collection in a building designed by Renzo Piano. The rest of the afternoon and the evening are free.
Turin. Visit the little church of S. Lorenzo, a Guarini masterpiece, and the cathedral, with Guarini’s Chapel of the Holy Shroud, and the sumptuous Consolata church. In the afternoon, guided walk past Palazzo dell’Università, the metal dome and spire of the 19th century Mole Antonelliana and Piazza Vittorio Veneto.
Day 5, Christmas Day
Turin, Superga. Free morning, with the option of attending a church service. After Christmas lunch drive up to the Basilica di Superga, the burial site of the Italian Royal family, a votive church designed by Juvarra magnificently sited on a hill overlooking the city and mountains.
Racconigi, Saluzzo, Staffarda. The Castello di Racconigi was one of the summer residences of the Savoys; the front overlooking the park is by Guarini (1676). Continue to Saluzzo and walk around the charming historic centre of the mediaeval town at the foot of Mount Monviso (3841m above sea level). The Abbey of Staffarda which retains an impressive Romanesque church with cloister and chapter house.
Venaria. The Venaria Reale (Amedeo Castellamonte 1660, Juvarra 1714–28) is the largest of the suburban palaces, a magnificent complex which reopened in 2007 after comprehensive renovation. Drive to Milan Linate airport; returning to Heathrow at c. 5.30pm.
Dr Luca Leoncini
Art historian specialising in 15th-century Italian painting. His first degree and PhD were from Rome University followed by research at the Warburg Institute in London. He has published articles on the classical tradition in Italian art of the 15th century and contributed to the Macmillan Dictionary of Art. He has also written on Mantegna and Renaissance drawings. Instagram: @lucaleonci
Price, per person
Two sharing: £2,660 or £2,430 without flights. Single occupancy: £2,980 or £2,750 without flights.
Air travel (Euro Traveller) on scheduled British Airways flights (Airbus A319); private coach for excursions and transfers; accommodation as described below; breakfasts, 1 lunch (Christmas Day) and 4 dinners with wine, water, coffee; all admissions; all tips for waiters, drivers and guides; all taxes; the services of the lecturer and tour manager.
Grand Hotel Sitea, Turin: a 4-star hotel, comfortable, elegantly furnished and very central. Single rooms are double rooms for sole use.
The tour involves a lot of walking in town centres, where coach access is restricted. There is a lot of standing in museums and churches and a considerable amount of uphill walking around the historic centre of Saluzzo. Average distance by coach per day: 37 miles.
Between 10 and 22 participants.
Before booking, please refer to the FCO website to ensure you are happy with the travel advice for the destination(s) you are visiting: www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice.