Overview
In the world of Islam the sixteenth century architecture of the Ottoman Empire has few peers. The supreme architect, and the most prolific, was Sinan. With the sixth century church of Haghia Sophia as the inspiration for many of his buildings, the pupil constantly strove to surpass the master in engineering skill and aesthetic refinements.
Bursa, the first capital of the embryonic Ottoman Empire, is now a vibrant growing town, in an attractive setting at the base of the Uludağ mountain. The tour appropriately begins here, in order to trace the development of Ottoman art and architecture by seeing its early manifestations first.
At nearby Iznik, in the sixteenth century, the era of Süleyman the Magnificent, ceramics achieved a peak of perfection, not only in tableware but also in tiles, using a process which has amazingly been lost to history.
Istanbul, formerly Constantinople, was the largest city in the world both in late antiquity and in the Middle Ages. Its fall to the Ottomans in 1453 put their empire on a level with the Persian and Roman empires of the past. It is a deeply fascinating place, with a bewildering history and a mix of opposing cultures, but mosques and minarets still dominate the skyline.
Edirne, formerly Adrianopolis, is an astonishing town, a once thriving capital, rich in architectural treasures, now beached on a byway and rarely reached by tourists. The greatest of all Sinan’s mosques is here.
Day 1
Fly at c. 11.50am from London Gatwick to Istanbul’s Sabiha Gokcen airport (Turkish Airlines). A short ferry ride across the Sea of Marmara and a drive south through mainly agricultural land with peach trees and olive groves to Bursa. First of two nights in Bursa.
Day 2
Bursa. This first settled capital of the Ottoman Empire after its capture from the Byzantines in 1326 retains the sights of the old centre, but the new town now sprawls onto the plateau beneath. Mosques were built by each Sultan from 1326 to 1451, outstanding being the Yeşil Cami (Green Mosque) and Yeşil Türbe (Green Tomb) with extensive tilework by the Masters of Tabriz. See the mosque and tombs of the Muradiye complex. Situated in the old commercial centre are Ulu Cami (Great Mosque) and the caravanserais whose rents funded the mosques and served the textile trade, famous for its silk velvets. Private shadow puppet performance, popularized during the Ottoman period. Overnight Bursa.
Day 3
Iznik. Drive to Iznik, formerly the flourishing Roman town of Nicæa, capital in the 13th century of the Byzantine emperors-in-exile; now a charming and unspoilt country town within concentric circuits of Roman and Byzantine walls. The museum in the beautiful hospice of Nilüfer Hatun tells the story of ceramic production from the Byzantine period to the great frit wares of the 16th century. Continue northwards and re-cross the Bosphorus. First of four nights in Istanbul.
Day 4
Istanbul. Topkapi Sarayi, the palace of the Ottoman Sultans, is arranged around a series of courtyards. Apart from the magnificent Harem (living quarters of the royal family), other buildings house fine collections of Turkish arts and Chinese porcelain. A fine work by the great Ottoman architect Sinan is the Süleymaniye Mosque, the enormous and elegant complex includes medreses, shops and tombs (currently undergoing restoration) overlooking the Golden Horn. Overnight Istanbul.
Day 5
Istanbul. Begin with monuments of the Byzantine city around the hippodrome, chief of which is Haghia Sophia, greatest of all Byzantine buildings and the inspiration for many Ottoman mosques. The Kariye Camii (St Saviour in Chora) has some of the finest Byzantine mosaics and wall paintings in the world. Optional visit to the old commercial district and Covered Bazaar.
Day 6
Istanbul. A short walk from the hotel is Yerebatan Saray, a remarkable colonnaded cistern. Continue to a small Sinan mosque, the Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Camii and then to the mosque of Rüstem Pasha, also small but brilliantly embellished with tiles. Nearby is the colourful and aromatic spice market. Optional visit to museum of Islamic and Turkish art in the Ibrahim Pasha Sarayi or the old commercial district and Covered Bazaar. Overnight in Istanbul.
Day 7
The Bosphorus. Travel by private boat along the Bosphorus to Sariyer. Visit the Sadberk Hanim Museum, which combines two exceptional private collections, one ethnographic and the other archaeological. Lunch by the Bosphorus. Overnight in Edirne, near the border with Greece and Bulgaria.
Day 8
Edirne. European capital of the Ottoman Empire until 1453. The Eski Camii (Old Mosque) shows the continuation of one of the traditions established at Bursa. The mosque and hospital complex of Sultan Beyazit II, is delightfully situated on the banks of the Tunca. The Üç Serefeli Mosque was the first Ottoman mosque to have a courtyard, and the first step towards the classical building style of the 16th century, exemplified by the nearby Selimiye, Sinan’s masterpiece. Return to Istanbul for the final night.
Day 9
Istanbul. Sultan Ahmet Camii (Blue Mosque), despite its fame, marks the beginning of the decline of Ottoman architecture. Drive past the massive Byzantine walls. Fly to Gatwick, arriving c. 4.00pm.
Price, per person
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Included
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Visas
Entry visas for Turkey can no longer be obtained on arrival and must be secured prior to arrival (this can be done online).
Accommodation
Hotel Çelik Palas, Bursa: a recently refurbished modern hotel conveniently located near the city centre. Hotel Eresin Crown, Istanbul: well located in the Sultanahmet area, this hotel is locally rated as 5-star, with elegant rooms and a roof terrace. Edirne Karavansary Hotel, Edirne: a converted 16th-century caravanserai with a sense of the traditional local hostelry, the best available hotel, fairly basic but adequate.
How strenuous?
There is quite a lot of walking within the towns, and paving is uneven. On some days there are several hours of driving. There are three hotel changes. Average distance by coach per day: 66 miles.
Are you fit enough to join the tour?
Group size
Between 12 and 22 participants.
Travel advice
Before booking, please refer to the FCDO website to ensure you are happy with the travel advice for the destination(s) you are visiting.
'Every aspect of our tour was expertly organised and carried through.'
'This is one of the best tours I have ever experienced.'
'Very well thought out and constructed. It was inevitable that Istanbul would be crowded and so it was good to have Iznik and Erdirne much more to ourselves.'