Oxiana, Tartary, Turkestan, Khiva, Bukhara, Samarkand: names to produce a frisson. They evoke alluring images of shimmering turquoise domes and exquisite glazed wall tiles, of lost libraries and renowned scholars, of the delicious decadence of the Rubáiyát of Omar Khayyám, of gardens, poetry and wine, of the fabulous riches of the Silk Road between China and Christendom.
Less agreeable images are also evoked: of Ghengis Khan and Timur (Tamerlane), the most far-reaching conquerors in history; of the tyranny and cruelty of the khans, perpetuating the last redoubts of medieval misrule; of the Great Game, the nineteenth-century Cold War between Britain and Russia; of terrain as hostile as the tribesmen and of a post-Soviet penumbra of Stans of suspect politics and allegiances.
The cities of the subtitle lie now in Uzbekistan, independent since 1991 but an entity that has its origins in late nineteenth-century Russian imperialism, which agglomerated a number of independent khanates, and whose borders were settled in the 1920s. The country lies at the very centre of Central Asia. One of only two double land-locked nations in the world, its capital lies a thousand miles north of the Indian Ocean (Afghanistan and Pakistan intervene), 1,400 miles east of the Black Sea and 400 miles from Xinjiang, China’s largely Islamic western province.
Space is not at a premium in this part of the world. Broad tree-lined boulevards encircle the historic town centres and no expanding girdle of high-rise apartments disfigures the approach. The spacious modern capital Tashkent has good museums and galleries; Shakhr-i-Sabz is famed for the breathtaking remains of Timur’s palace. A slave-trading oasis khanate, Khiva, the smallest of these cities, is perhaps the most intact and homogenous urban ensemble in the Islamic world, with biscuit-coloured brick and blue and turquoise maiolica. In Bukhara, gorgeously adorned architecture spanning a thousand years still rises above a streetscape of indeterminate age, while Samarkand has the largest, most resplendently caparisoned historic buildings of all.
Modernity has made relatively unobtrusive inroads throughout and the whitewashed villages and farmsteads with their awnings of vines would hold few surprises for Tolstoy. Since independence, in the wake of economic liberalisation, streets and courtyards are draped with dazzling hued carpets and textiles; the glories of the Silk Road in its heyday are not hard to imagine.
Fly at c. 11.30am (Turkish Airlines) from London Heathrow to Tashkent via Istanbul. Rooms are available from 2.00pm today.
Tashkent. Touch-down c. 1.00am. Nothing is planned before departure from the hotel at 1.30pm for lunch. Afternoon city tour. See the World War II Memorial and Independence Square, home to government buildings and the Monument of Independence. First of two nights in Tashkent.
Tashkent. The morning is spent at the Chorsu Bazaar and Kukeldash Madrassa, introducing the theme of Soviet reconstruction of Islamic heritage. Afternoon visits to the State Museum of History and Amir Timur Museum.
Tashkent to Samarkand. High-speed train from Tashkent to Samarkand (duration: c. 2 hours; luggage transferred separately). Visit Shah-i-Zinda, an ensemble of mausolea gorgeously apparelled in many types of dazzling glazed tiles, the Afrasiab History Museum, which documents pre-Islamic Samarkand, and the remains of the extraordinary observatory built by Ulug Beg in the 15th century. First of three nights in Samarkand.
Shakhr-i-Sabz. Cross the Hisor Mountains (by car; coaches are not permitted), a dramatic drive with long views down the sun-baked valley the other side. Shakhr-i-Sabz was transformed by Timur (1336–1405) whose home town it was. An astounding survival is the most imposing palace portal in the history of architecture, an arch 22 metres wide with a wondrous range of tiled decoration. Further Timurid remnants include a mosque complex with three turquoise domes.
Samarkand. Begin with the Amir Timur Masuoleum, burial place of Timur. The Registan, ‘the noblest public square in the world’ (Lord Curzon, 1889), is bounded on three sides by magnificent madrassas of the 15th and 17th centuries. Commissioned by Timur in honour of his wife, Bibi Khanum Mosque is an impressive exercise in gigantism despite partial destruction and over-zealous restoration. Gumbaz Synagogue, hidden in the Old Town, was constructed in the 19th century for Samarkand’s Jewish community.
Samarkand to Bukhara. A 5-hour drive. Visit Central Asia’s oldest surviving mosque, Magok-i-Attari, before lunch in the hotel. The afternoon walk begins in the social heart of the city, the Lyab-i Hauz square built around a 15th-century pool and flanked by the Nadir Divanbegi Madrassa and Khanaga. Time for tea under the mulberry trees. First of three nights in Bukhara.
Bukhara. Genghis Khan ensured in 1220 that – with notable exceptions, including the Kalyan Minaret at 48 metres then the tallest in the world – little of Bukhara’s first golden age remains, but of the second, the 15th and 16th centuries, there survives much magnificent architecture, lavishly embellished. Today’s walks take in the vast Kalyan Mosque (finished 1514) with a capacity of 10,000, several grand madrassas, the formidable citadel of the khans and the Zindan, their infamous prison. Free afternoon, with an optional excursion to the Emir’s summer palace (1911) a riotous mix of Russian and traditional Bukharan decoration with rose garden, aviary and swimming pool.
Bukhara. Visit the 12th century Namaz Goh mosque, before moving on to the perfectly preserved 10th-century Mausoleum of Ismail Samani, which displays exquisite brickwork. From here walk through the park to the Bolo Hauz Mosque with its elegant patio of timber columns. The resting place of a Mongol khan, the Mausoleum of Buyan-Khuli Khan still has some fine chipped 14th-century mosaic and terracotta. Next door are the twin domes of the larger Saifuddin Bukharzi Mausoleum. Free afternoon.
From Bukhara to Khiva. The 280-mile journey starts and finishes in an unspoilt landscape of green fields, plentiful trees and adobe farmsteads, while the central section is undulating desert, specked with tufty shrubs that are briefly green in the spring. There are periodic sightings of the meandering Oxus, the mighty river crossed by Alexander the Great in 329 bc. Reach Khiva in time for a walk before dinner. First of one or two nights in Khiva.
Khiva. No modern intrusions spoil the timeless fabric within a rectangle of crenellated and turreted ramparts. Most of the buildings are 19th-century, but such was Khiva’s isolation and conservatism that to the inexpert eye they could date to any time from the 16th century. The Friday Mosque, a forest of carved wooden columns some dating to the 10th century, the Tash Hauli Palace, whose harem quarters constitute the loveliest secular spaces in Central Asia, and the Paklavan Mahmoud Mausoleum where tiled interiors reach a peak of opulence. Second of two nights in Khiva.
Drive a short distance from Khiva to Urgench for a morning internal flight to Tashkent. The c. 4.15pm flight (Uzbekistan Airways) from Tashkent arrives at Heathrow c. 8.00pm.
Dr Venetia Porter
Curator at the British Museum, responsible for the collection of Islamic art. She gained a degree in Arabic and Persian at the University of Oxford, followed by a M.Phil in Islamic Art from the University of Durham. She recently curated the exhibition Hajj: Journey to the heart of Islam (2012).
Price, per person
May and October: two sharing: £4,080 or £3,480 without international flights. Single occupancy: £4,460 or £3,860 without international flights.
April (exclusively for solo travellers): £4,340 or £3,740 without international flights.
Air travel (economy class) with Turkish Airlines: London to Tashkent via Istanbul (aircraft: Boeing 777, Airbus 321) and Uzbekistan Airways: Tashkent to London (aircraft: Boeing 757) and Urgench to Tashkent (Airbus 320); travel by private air-conditioned coach, cars (in convoy, for one excursion) and high-speed train between Tashkent and Samarkand; hotel accommodation; breakfasts, 11 lunches and 10 dinners with wine, water and coffee; all admissions; all tips; all taxes; the services of the lecturer, tour manager and national guide.
International flights: We travel to Tashkent with Turkish Airlines via Istanbul in order to arrive in Uzbekistan at a more civilised hour than is offered by Uzbekistan Airways’ direct route. However, we return directly to London with Uzbekistan Airways – the most convenient return flight.
Internal flight: Please note that the flight schedule between Urgench and Tashkent can vary and is not confirmed until c. 4 months before the tour departs. The hotel stay on Day 11 will be either in Khiva or Tashkent depending on this schedule.
As of 1st February 2019, British, Canadian, Australian and New Zealand passport holders, as well as many European citizens, can travel to Uzbekistan without a visa for a period of 30 days. Please see the below list and contact us if your nationality does not appear to discuss the visa procedure.
Citizens of the following 55 countries are covered by Uzbekistan’s visa-free regime
Andorra, Australia, Austria, Argentina, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Brazil, Brunei Darussalam, Bulgaria, Canada, Chile, Croatia, Republic of Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Indonesia, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malaysia, Malta, Monaco, Mongolia, Montenegro, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, San Marino, Serbia, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Tajikistan, Turkey, United Kingdom, The Vatican American citizens are still required to apply for a 30-day electronic visa which can only be applied for 3 months before the tour departure. The current cost is USD20, paid using Visa or Mastercard. This is not included in the price of the tour because you have to obtain it yourself. We will advise on the process.
Hotels on this tour can be subject to change. We use what we consider the best available but once out of Tashkent, choice is limited. Lotte City Hotel Tashkent Palace: spacious, opulent and comfortable. City Hotel, Samarkand: a small (27 rooms), friendly hotel, refurbished in 2016 and extended in 2019 or Hotel Sultan, Samarkand: also small and recently refurbished, with rooftop terrace. Omar Khayyam Hotel, Bukhara: excellent location in the centre of the old city, adequately comfortable, or Hotel Asia, Bukhara: also located in the old part of the city. Madrassa Mukhammad Hotel, Khiva: converted madrassa, impressively restored, each room a former student’s cell opening onto the courtyard.
This is a long and demanding tour which begins with an overnight flight. You will be on your feet a lot, walking and standing around – sometimes on exposed sites in warm temperatures. The tour would not be suitable for anyone with difficulties with everyday walking and stair climbing. There are long journeys on two of the days but many days with minimal driving. The average distance by coach per day is 51 miles.
April 2020: Heather Millican
Between 10 and 22 participants.
Before booking, please refer to the FCO website to ensure you are happy with the travel advice for the destination(s) you are visiting: www.fco.gov.uk.
'I have always wanted to visit Samarkand and Bukhara and I am pleased to have done so. The buildings are absolutely fantastic. This trip will be long remembered.'
'It will be the second time I’ve taken this tour with Peter Webb. The first time was one of those life-changing experiences. Peter is, of course a classical Qu’ranic Arabic specialist, so it was wonderful to stand in front of a 30 metre tiled madrassa facade and hear him read around the inscriptions above, simultaneously translating, and literally identifying their chapter and verse.'
'Beautifully planned. I appreciated the balance between the landscapes.'
'The lecturer is superb, young and so enthusiastic about his subject. Approachable, unflappable and diplomatic. Excellent lecturers were given and equally excellent impromptu lecturers and information were also provided.’
'What a happy time we had. I met some very nice people, saw some amazing things that I never thought I would see, and can only thank Martin Randall Travel for a very well planned trip.'
'This was a fantastic holiday which we found fascinating in all respects. Well done MRT.'