Gastronomic Friuli-Venezia Giulia - Superb food and wine in Italy’s less frequented north east

Regions on the border are often the most complex and interesting in terms of gastronomic culture, and Friuli-Venezia Giulia is no exception. A centuries-old history of strife and changing allegiances has resulted in a delicious melting pot that simmers with the flavours and scents of Venice, elsewhere in Italy, Austria and Slovenia. The coffee culture of Trieste is as sophisticated as that found in the old-world cafés of Vienna; dishes such as la jota – a dense and delicious sauerkraut, bean and pork stew – are redolent of Central Europe; pastries and baked goods are Austrian-inspired with an Italian accent; and the wines are simply among the most exciting not just in Italy but in all of Europe.

After World War II, Friuli’s vineyards destroyed once more in fierce fighting, a collective decision was made to concentrate on quality through the cultivation and production of a range of varietal wines from both indigenous single grape varieties (Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, Picolit) as well as international (Sauvignon, Pinot Nero, Cabernet Sauvignon). There is tradition but also innovation, experimentation with unusual blends, natural wine-making and more.

Mountain traditions include the curing of meats in those high, rarified places where the air is dry and clean, perfect for the production of Italy’s sweetest cured ham, prosciutto di San Daniele, as well as mountain cheese-making traditions such as the summer transhumance. Polenta, the staple of the north, is still widely enjoyed here, sometimes cooked outdoors in remote mountain huts. Meanwhile, down on the Adriatic, there is fish and shellfish to enjoy, as well as art and history in towns whose histories pre-date even the Romans.

Gastronomic Friuli is a voyage into flavours from another world, another era, yes, but it is also a pointer to the future: a demonstration of how, out of adversity, an industrious region has learned to embrace European harmony and its past, not least through its richly delicious culinary heritage and history.