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Ani, a ruined and deserted medieval Armenian city site located in Kars Province, Turkey.
Sumela Monastery in the Pontic Moutains via Nurettin Taha Ozdengelen
The Zeugma Mosaic Museum in Gaziantep via Sailingstone Travel
Dome of Kasimiye Madrasah in Mardin via Matyas Rehak
Ishak Pasha Palace, located in the Dogubayazit district of Agri province of eastern Turkey via Resul Muslu
Building of the great mosque of Diyarbakir via Sener Dagasan
Antique statues, UNESCO World Heritage Site at Mount Nemrut via Mehmet Cetin

Eastern Turkey - Archaeology, architecture, history & landscapes

16 days from
US$8,460
Book today with a deposit from US$1,269
7th - 22nd June 2027, 17th September 2027 - 2nd October 2027
7th - 22nd June 2027 - US$8,460
Ian Colvin
17th September 2027 - 2nd October 2027 - US$8,460
Professor Graham Philip

Tour highlights

  • Eastern Anatolia end to end, from the plains of Mesopotamia to the Pontic Alps and the Black Sea.
  • A frontier of empires: Urartu and Assyria, Rome and Persia, Byzantium, the Seljuks and Ottomans.
  • Göbekli Tepe and Karahan Tepe, monumental enclosures raised by hunter-gatherers 11,000 years ago.
  • Lost Christian kingdoms: Armenian Ani and Akdamar, Georgian Öşk Vank, Byzantine Trebizond.

Eastern Anatolia is high, wide and thinly peopled country. The plains of Upper Mesopotamia, watered by the Tigris and Euphrates, rise to the Taurus mountains and the volcanic plateau around Lake Van. Further north the Pontic Alps drop through forest to the Black Sea. This tour crosses all of it in a single 16-day sweep, from Gaziantep in the south-west to Trabzon on the coast, without backtracking.

It also spans 11,000 years. Near Şanlıurfa, at Göbekli Tepe and Karahan Tepe, hunter-gatherers raised enclosures of T-shaped pillars carved with foxes, boars and vultures around 9600 bc. That is more than 6,000 years before Stonehenge, and before farming had taken hold. Excavations here continue to overturn assumptions about how and why people first built on a monumental scale.

These landscapes have always been a crossroads. Şanlıurfa claims to be the birthplace of Abraham, patriarch of the three Near Eastern faiths. Xenophon’s Ten Thousand, Greek mercenaries stranded after the defeat of Cyrus the Younger, fought their way across the plateau to the sea. Urartu, rival of Assyria, built its citadels at Van. The kings of Commagene set colossal Greco-Persian gods on the summit of Nemrut Dağ. Rome and Persia contested the frontier, and Armenian, Georgian and Syriac Christian cultures flourished between Byzantium and the caliphate before the Seljuks and Ottomans arrived.

Much of that Christian world has slipped out of the historical record. Ani, the medieval Armenian capital, stands deserted above the gorge that now marks the border with Armenia. The 10th-century monasteries of Öşk Vank and Khakhuli survive from the Georgian kingdom of Tao-Klarjeti. On the island of Akdamar, the Armenian king Gagik Artzruni had himself carved on the walls of his church. Deyrulzafaran, seat of the Syriac Orthodox patriarchs for centuries, is still a working monastery. Seljuk Erzurum, the Ottoman İshak Paşa Palace beneath Mount Ararat and the frescoed churches of Byzantine Trebizond complete the journey.

Each departure is led by a field archaeologist who knows this terrain at first hand, and the two bring complementary expertise to the same itinerary. Ian Colvin is a Byzantinist who has directed excavations in Georgia for more than two decades, and he brings particular depth to the Armenian, Georgian and Byzantine monuments. Professor Graham Philip of Durham University is a prehistorian of south-west Asia who has excavated in south-eastern Turkey and leads work to protect endangered archaeology across the Middle East. He brings particular authority to the Neolithic sites. On both departures a national guide and tour manager also travel with the group.

This is a long and demanding tour, and hotels are more modest than in western Europe. In return, it reaches more of this extraordinary region than almost any other.

This tour is particularly strenuous. Please read the advice under 'Practicalities'.


Itinerary

Fly at c. 1.30pm (Turkish Airlines) from London Heathrow to Gaziantep via Istanbul, arriving Gaziantep c. 10.45pm. Overnight in Gaziantep.

After a leisurely start, visit the Gaziantep Museum, home to one of Turkey’s most impressive collections of mosaics, relocated from the nearby site of Zeugma before the area was flooded by the construction of the Birecik Dam. The mosaics, dating from the 2nd and 3rd centuries bc, are testament to the wealth of the region and are among the finest examples anywhere to be found. Drive to Şanlıurfa and visit the extraordinary excavations at Göbekli Tepe. Dated to c. 10,000 bc, this is perhaps the earliest known man-made place of worship and challenges current ideas about the early Neolithic. First of two nights in Şanlıurfa.

Şanlıurfa, or Ancient Edessa as named by Alexander the Great’s successor Seleucus I Nicator, an early Christian centre of learning and now a pilgrimage town for Muslims. In the morning, drive out of Şanlıurfa to Karahan Tepe, another Neolithic site showcasing T-shaped pillars and stone structures dating back over 10,000 years. In the afternoon visit the complex of 12th-century mosques purported to mark Abraham’s birthplace.

The Tigris and Euphrates rivers define the region known as Mesopotamia (‘land between the rivers’ in Greek), which has been home to many great civilisations including the Akkadians and the Assyrians. Drive north toward the Euphrates and stop to see the Ataturk Dam (the third largest in the world). Atop one of the highest peaks in the Eastern Taurus mountain, Nemrut Dağ, stands the temple-tomb of Antiochus I (86–31 bc). This monumental structure reflects the syncretism of Commagene’s culture, blending Greek and Persian influences in its pantheon. Overnight in Karadut.

Located in the upper Tigris basin, Diyarbakir has been a focal point at the crossroads of Mesopotamia. Its identity is deeply rooted in this strategic location, and throughout history, it has been influenced by nearly every dynasty that has ruled over Anatolia and Mesopotamia. The Great Mosque dates back to 639 and was rebuilt in the 11th century. St. Giragos Church (1376) is one of the largest Armenian churches in the Middle East. Continue to Mardin where the next two nights are spent.

Deyrul Zafaran, built in 495 and once the seat of the Syrian Orthodox patriarch, has some beautiful stonework in the chapel housing the patriarchal throne. The Kasimiye Madrasah was built during the Artuklu Period and completed in 1445. This two-storey, domed building features a single courtyard of smooth cut stone. In the afternoon, explore Mor Behnam Church, a historic landmark in Mardin built in 569. The day concludes with a visit to the Grand Mosque, originally built with two minarets; today, only one remains, bearing an inscription from 1176.

The 260-mile journey from Mardin to Van offers a fascinating change of scenery. From barren, stony terrain, the landscape transitions to fertile plains before revealing the stunning vistas of Lake Van. Stop en route near the village of Anıtlı to visit the Meryem Ana Manastırı (Monastery of the Virgin Mary). Initially believed to be a 1st-century Roman triumphal arch, it was later converted into a church between the 5th and 6th centuries. After lunch in Batman, continue to Van. First of three nights in Van.

Take a boat to the 10th-century Church of the Holy Cross, seat of Armenian king Gagik Artzruni, who was crowned here in 908. Built in 921, the church is made of local sandstone with relief carvings of Biblical stories, mythological animals and Gagik himself. Faded frescoes adorn the interior. A verdant enclave surrounded by pea-green waters and snow capped mountains, the setting is idyllic. Enjoy a lakeside lunch before returning to Van.

Capital of the kingdom of Urartu in the 9th century bc, Van (ancient Tushpa) was rival to Assyria. The Van Museum displays artefacts tracing the history of the region from the Stone Age to the present. Explore the massive, steep-sided Van Castle, first investigated by Austen Henry Layard in the 1840s, and the trilingual inscription from the time of Xerxes, which contributed to the decipherment of cuneiform. In the afternoon drive to Çavuştepe to see the basalt remains of the fortress-palace of Sarduri-Hinili, including the sacrifice area, open-air temple, cemetery and cisterns. Continue to the magnificent Hosap Castle, built by the Kurds.

Drive through the Artüs Mountain range toward the Iranian border, to the İshak Paşa Palace positioned at the base of Mount Ararat. A magnificent example of Ottoman architecture, it is a fascinating mixture of styles: Seljuk, Iranian, Georgian and Armenian. Drive up through pasture land following the Armenian border north to plateaus with spectacular mountain vistas. First of two nights in Kars.

Once the capital of medieval Armenia, Ani is now a deserted city standing sentinel above the Arpaçay river, the border between Turkey and Armenia. Its walls, towers and minarets retain many of their foundation inscriptions, and its ruined churches and cathedral display the variety and quality of Armenian architecture. Unlike Ani, Kars bears the marks of subsequent Ottoman and Russian occupation. Visit the Armenian Church of the Holy Apostles and the Seljuk castle and Ulu Camii.

Follow the Aras river west through the Aladağlar mountains; magical scenery with fields of gorse and fern, pristine river beds and deep ravines. Pass the beautiful six-arched Çobandede bridge over the Aras. In Erzurum, the principal city of eastern Anatolia, visit the splendid Seljuk Ulu Camii, with its wooden dome, and also the twin-minareted Çifte Minare Medrese, its entrance adorned with stalactite porches. First of two nights in Erzurum.

All day excursion to the 10th-century Georgian monasteries of Ösk Vank and Khakhuli north of Erzurum. Known as Tao-Klarjeti, this area was an important part of medieval Georgia, ruled by the Bagratid kings. Both monasteries were founded by the Georgian noble David the Great Kuropalates in the second half of the 10th century: Khakhuli, an important literary centre, retains its cross-dome triple-apsed church, with fine relief carvings and frescoes still surviving. Ösk Vank is even more impressive, with scallop-shell arches, high relief mouldings and sculpted column capitals. Overnight Erzurum.

Drive north through the Pontic Alps, in the steps of Xenophon’s Ten Thousand. The Sümela Monastery, founded in the fourth century, clings to the sheer rock face above the Altindere Valley. A recent restoration programme has secured the future of the many surviving monastic buildings, with extensive frescoes of the 14th- and 18th-centuries. Descend through temperate forests to Trabzon, the historic port town on the Black Sea. First of two nights in Trabzon.

In the morning, visit the Pavilion where Atatürk stayed in 1924. Continue to the late-Byzantine church of Aya Sophia, with 13th-century frescoes and frieze. The Kızlar Monastery, or Panaghia Theoskepastos, built during the reign of Alexios III of Trebizond, is a historic female monastery overlooking Trabzon. Featuring inscriptions and portraits of Alexios III, it has undergone repairs over the years. The day concludes with a city tour of Trabzon.

Fly from Trabzon to London Heathrow, via Istanbul, arriving at c. 4.50pm.

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Expert speakers

Ian Colvin

Historian and Byzantinist specialising in late antiquity and the South Caucasus. Trained at Oxford, he spent 18 years as a researcher at the University of Cambridge. Since 2001 he has directed excavations at Nokalakevi, ancient Archaeopolis, in western Georgia. He knows the Armenian and Georgian monuments of eastern Turkey well and has led tours in the region for several years.

More tours led by Ian Colvin
Ian Colvin
Professor Graham Philip

Works in the Department of Archaeology at Durham University, where he specialises in the prehistoric and Bronze Age archaeology of southwest Asia. Before joining Durham in 1994, he worked in Baghdad and then in Amman as Assistant Director of the Council for British Research in the Levant. He has travelled and excavated in southeastern Turkey and has directed field projects in Jordan, Syria, Lebanon.

He currently leads the Durham component of the multi-institutional heritage protection project Endangered Archaeology in the Middle East and North Africa. Current research interests include landscape archaeology – including the analysis of satellite imagery – and the study of ancient material culture.

More tours led by Professor Graham Philip
Professor Graham Philip

Practicalities

Two sharing: $9,010 or $8,460 without flights. Single occupancy: $10,110 or $9,560 without flights.

Travel by private air-conditioned coach; hotel accommodation as described below; breakfasts, 14 lunches and 12 dinners with wine, water and coffee; all admissions to museums and sites; all tips; all taxes; the services of the lecturer, tour manager and national guide.

Sirehan Boutique Hotel, Gaziantep: situated in a conveniently-located historic building, with traditional decor. DoubleTree by Hilton, Şanlıurfa: a modern hotel offering good service and amenities. Euphrat Hotel, Mount Nemrut: located within Mount Nemrut National Park, this hotel has attractive outside spaces, and an outdoor pool. Gazi Konağı Hotel, Mardin: a comfortable hotel housed within a traditional stone-built mansion. DoubleTree by Hilton, Van: a modern hotel with pleasant views of Lake Van and the surrounding countryside. Beylerbeyi Palace, Kars: a charming boutique hotel in a converted former palace. Hilton Garden Inn, Erzurum: a modern hotel with indoor pool and spa facilities. Zorlu Grand Hotel, Trabzon: a tastefully decorated 5-star hotel with charming communal spaces. Single rooms are doubles for sole use throughout.

Please note that we select the best hotels available and use reputable chains where possible, prioritising comfort, character, and convenient location. In this region, however, accommodation standards are more modest than elsewhere, and service and facilities do not always correspond to the level normally associated with similar star ratings in Western Europe.

British, New Zealand, and American ordinary passport holders can travel to Turkey without a visa for visits of up to 90 days. Most other nationals require individual electronic visas, which are not included in the tour price. You will need to apply online in advance.

A long and demanding tour with some early starts and days with a lot of coach travel (but roads are good and the coach carries refreshments). Participants should be able to manage everyday walking and stair-climbing without difficulty. Archaeological sites involve scrambling over rough terrain and sure-footedness is essential. The average distance by coach per day is c. 80 miles.

Are you fit enough to join the tour?

Between 10 and 22 participants.

Before booking, please refer to Travel.State.Gov to ensure you are happy with the travel advice for the destination(s) you are visiting. As a British company we follow the advice of the UK Foreign Commonwealth and Development Office.

Dates & prices

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2027

Date

Speaker

Price

Date:

7th - 22nd June 2027

Speaker:

Ian Colvin

Price:

from US$8,460

(Based on two sharing)
Book Now

Date:

17th September - 2nd October 2027

Speaker:

Professor Graham Philip

Price:

from US$8,460

(Based on two sharing)
Book Now

Testimonials

“

The lecturer was an inspiration throughout.

”
“

The itinerary was excellent. I couldn't believe you could provide so many fascinating and diverse sites. There was something remarkable everyday.

”
“

The local guide was quite outstanding. Very clear explanations on Turkey's history and modern challenges. The lecturer never failed to be entertaining and informative.

”

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