Through sacred spaces – the cathedrals of England

'The Cathedrals of England’ is an epic ten-day tour across England – north, south, east and west – to see some of the most glorious medieval architecture to be found anywhere. Jocelyn Simon, a participant on the tour who travelled from Queensland, Australia, shares some of the highlights from her diary.

Day 1: Ely. When I first saw the Octagon Lantern Tower at the crossing in 1996, tears streamed down my cheeks. Standing beneath its towering beauty this time around, I immediately realised it was like no other I had seen, probably one of the most beautiful ecclesiastical sights to behold.

Our lecturer, Dr Hugh Doherty, greeted us at Ely’s ‘Ship of the Fens’, founded by Princess Etheldreda around 673.

With him we climbed 179 steps up impossibly narrow spiral stairs into the Octagon itself. Hinged panels were opened so we could peer down into the crossing below. Breathtaking. On descent, we emerged onto walkways to view the landscape and nave roof.

Day 2: Lincoln. Victorian writer John Ruskin called Lincoln “out and out the most precious piece of architecture in the British Isles”.Standing in this vast interior, we understood why. In the late 15th-century chantry chapel of Bishop Russell, Hugh revealed the 1950s murals by Duncan Grant, closed for 20 years due to their homosexual overtones.

The Chapter House’s spectacular fan-vaulted roof spreading from a central column took our breath away.

Hugh helped us find the infamous 13th-century Lincoln imp (below), quietly hiding above a capital..

Day 3: Durham. Hugh suggested we “emulate paratroopers” leaping from the coach to race up the steep embankment. A special organ recital awaited us in the Quire. The vision of our cohort charging upward, makes me smile.

The organist performed Bach’s Prelude and works by William Byrd and Francis Jackson – the acoustics sent sounds soaring magnificently around us. The architecture of the nave, with six-foot-six-inch diameter cylindrical columns and unique engraved patterns perhaps constitute the finest Romanesque church in Britain.

Hugh explained St Cuthbert’s extraordinary journey: his undecayed body moved for years to escape Vikings, finally arriving in Durham when the cart became bogged, taken as a sign God wished him to remain here. His original 7th-century wooden coffin, pieced together from 6,000 fragments, is displayed in the museum. In the Chapter House, Hugh quickly rolled back a carpet revealing two ‘secret’ tombs, much to everyone’s amusement.

We arrived in York at dinnertime with wonderful views of the Minster bathed in sunshine as we pulled into the lovely Grand Hotel.

Day 4: York. York Minster is England’s largest medieval cathedral with the widest nave. Hugh showed us the 15th-century choir screen with English kings from William the Conqueror to Henry VI, and took us down into the crypt, the oldest part, to see Romanesque foundations and the 12th-century Doomstone depicting hell’s cauldron, warning what happens if you sin.

It was time for Evensong at 5.30pm, and we entered through the main southern door to the accompaniment of the bells chiming the so-called “Nelson Chime”, giving a carillon of 35 bells in total (three chromatic octaves).

Day 5: Coventry. Today we farewelled The North, departing for Coventry. We began exploring the remains of the original Benedictine Abbey, the first of three cathedrals, utterly desecrated by Henry VIII’s troops.

The bombed Cathedral Church St Michael, destroyed by Hitler’s incendiary bombs on 14 November 1940, stands as a memorial to all war victims. Hugh explained how the new cathedral (consecrated in 1962) has moved many visitors emotionally. I wondered how I’d react to the modern architecture. I found it completely breathtaking.

Walking toward Sutherland’s enormous Christ the Redeemer tapestry was a journey from darkness to light. Engineers angled the stained-glass windows toward the altar, directing light onto the tapestry, not the congregation. The Charred Cross was created from two wooden beams found after the bombing. A replica of the statue Reconciliation marks reconciliation between nations once in conflict.

Day 6: Gloucester. I was almost blown over photographing a gargoyle in Gloucester’s vicious wind. Inside, the mighty six-foot-six-inch Romanesque pillars mirror Durham’s. Hugh quietly led us to see Robert of Normandy’s tomb, his effigy carved in Irish bog-oak.

We followed him out into the beautiful cloisters, the first I’d seen with stained glass filling the arches. The most beautiful feature: extensive fan vaulting along the ceilings. This 14th-century ‘Great Cloister’ is the first and finest example of fan vaulting in the world (known as ‘Hogwarts’ to Harry Potter fans).

Day 7: Wells. Delightful Wells, England’s smallest city, is not hard to fall in love with. The Vicars’ Close, dating from the 14th century, is Europe’s oldest continually inhabited street with all but one original building intact.

In the Chained Library, England’s largest medieval library when it opened in the 1450s, we were led through sections closed to the public. Librarians showed us centuries-old volumes with much enthusiasm, including a bible translated into 47 languages.

Wells was among the first of the cathedrals built entirely in Gothic style. The unique scissor arches on each of the crossing’s four sides were constructed mid-14th century as an engineering solution to the tower’s partial collapse – among the more unusual creations of the Middle Ages.

At 5pm we watched one of the world’s oldest working clocks, perform its jousting knights display before Evensong.

Day 8: Old Sarum & Salisbury. Old Sarum – a layer cake of history from Stone Age hunters through Roman Fort to Norman stronghold. From the upper bailey, Salisbury Cathedral’s spire was visible just three miles south.

At Salisbury, Hugh drew our attention to The Cathedral in Glass, Lawrence Whistler’s 1947 etching in memory of his brother Rex, who died in Normandy. As the glass slowly rotates, three cathedral images appear: the Spire, the Nave, and the Chapter House column. Light creates contrast: bright areas represent life and eternity, dark areas death and suffering.

The Chapter House holds Salisbury’s Magna Carta, the best preserved of only four surviving.

Day 9: Winchester. The huge west window, smashed during the English Civil War, was restored in a colourful mosaic pattern after horrified residents secretly collected and stored the glass. With the monarchy’s return 18 years later, glaziers couldn’t recreate the original design.

Throughout the east end we walked on gorgeous 13th-century floor tiles, the largest surviving spread of medieval decorated tiles inside any English building. High above, mortuary chests contain bones of early kings and bishops. We finished in the nave’s northern aisle, at Jane Austen’s tomb.

With thanks to Jocelyn Simon for her words and images.

The Cathedrals of England departs 6–14 May & 2–10 September 2026 and 14–22 April, 5–13 May, 1–9 September & 15–23 September 2027.