Bengal by River - Calcutta and a week’s cruise along the Hooghly

The tour begins in Calcutta with a free morning (flights from London are not included – see Practicalities). Rooms are available at the hotel from 2.00pm on 13th February, allowing for an early check-in. In the afternoon visit the South Park Street Cemetery, where tombs of the early British settlers are of a monumental classicism without parallel in Britain. First of three nights in Calcutta.

This morning’s walk provides a survey of the civic buildings from the late 18th-century. St John’s Church, which dates back to 1784, is loosely modelled on St Martin-in-the-Fields in London (like hundreds throughout the globe). In the grounds, the mausoleum of Job Charnock, the founder of Calcutta, is the earliest British building in India. Optional visit in the afternoon to the Indian Museum, built by Granville to house the collection from the Asiatic Society, is India’s most important collection of sculpture.

The Anglican cathedral of St Paul, completed in 1847 in Gothic style, has many fine memorials and a window by Burne-Jones, one of his best. Completed in 1921, the Victoria Memorial is the most imposing building in Calcutta. It houses a collection of European paintings and a display on the history of the city. In the evening visit Srijit Tagore’s Residence for a private Bharatanatyam performance by world acclaimed dancer, Souraja Tagore.

The Nevah Shalome Synagogue (1825) and the Armenian Church (1707) are reminders of the variety of religions which thrived in Calcutta prior to Independence. Catch an afternoon train (c. 4 hours) to Farakka to board the RV Rajmahal in the early evening. First of seven nights on board the RV Rajmahal.

Drive from Farakka to the quiet city of Gaur, the ancient capital of Bengal. Situated within easy reach of the black basalt Rajmahal hills, Gaur is filled with elegant Muslim ruins. The many mosques, palaces and gateways stand as testament to a prosperous past and gifted stonemasons. Sail in the afternoon through a stretch of charming waterway that weaves past banks lush with mango groves and mustard crops to the village of Baranagar. Moor here overnight.

Walk through fields to visit three miniature carved-brick Jain temples. Sail to Murshidabad, where a magnificent example of Greek Revival architecture, the Hazarduari Palace was built by Duncan McLeod in 1837 as a guest house for the Nawab. The museum holds a respectable collection of European paintings, sculpture and arms. The imposing Katra Mosque (1724) is modelled on the great mosque at Mecca. Visit the Kathgola palace, 18th-century home of rich Jain merchants in classical Georgian style. Remain at Murshidabad overnight.

The Mughal Khushbagh is a peaceful walled pleasure-garden containing the Tomb of Siraj-ud-Daulah and family. After sailing further, there is an excursion to the site of the battle of Plassey, where Robert Clive’s 1757 victory over the Nawab of Bengal, Siraj-ud-Daulah was the prelude to consolidation and extension of the East India Company’s power in Bengal and beyond. Continue sailing to Katwa for the night.

Visit the village of Matiari where brass is worked using traditional methods. Sail to the pilgrimage centre of Nabadwip, where the river ghats are lined with active temples for a leisurely walk in the bazaar. The skyline of Mayapur on the opposite bank is dominated by a vast new temple. Sail in the evening from Mayapur to Kalna.

At Kalna, visit the series of fine 18th-cent. terracotta temples and the unique Shiva temple with concentric rings comprising 108 double-vaulted shrines. Continue sailing to Hooghly where the 19th-century Shi’a Imambara of Hazi Mohammed Mohasin contains fine marble inlay. Sail to the former French colony of Chandernagore, established in 1673.

Visit the remaining churches and cemeteries as well as Governor Joseph François Dupleix’s House. Sail to the former Danish colony of Serampore, which came under British rule in 1845. Continue sailing to Calcutta in the evening.

At Calcutta, disembark the RV Rajmahal in the morning and transfer to the hotel. The Home of Rabindranath Tagore, the Bengali poet and philosopher who received the Nobel Prize for literature in 1913, provides an insight into the Bengali Intellectual Renaissance which in turn led to the Independentist movement. Overnight in Calcutta.

The tour ends after breakfast. Transfers are arranged for your onward travel.

Changes to the itinerary: Please note that some visits are subject to confirmation. Circumstances might arise which prevent us operating the tour as advertised. On the river, circumstances such as the ebb and flow of the tide and shifting silt levels might necessitate omission of one or more ports of call. We would try and devise a satisfactory alternative.